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Routes in Capulin Tower Area

Anachronistic Ethics T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Onward to the Edge of Space! S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Petrichor Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Viking, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Hagen Telg, Jason Halladay
Page Views: 511 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Oct 28, 2013
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Can you smell it? A full 35m of climbing with a bit of everything from engaging face climbing to an overhanging fingers crux to thin hands to hands to wide hands to an easy off-width finish.
Face climb past two bolts to a full-recovery ledge below the overhanging fingers crux. Lock those fingers in good and climb into thin hands to hands to a good shake above the crux. Continue up the widening crack to the anchor.


A great shot from the AAJ showing the meat of Petrichor Crack.

Location

Straight up the middle of Capulin Tower. A 70m rope is required to lower.

Protection

2 draws and single rack from .3 to #5 camalots. Maybe doubles in the .5 and .75 camalots but it's hard to stop to place those extra pieces.

Photos

Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
Beautiful line.

Leave the #5 but take the extra .5, a good trade in my opinion. The top out move takes a 0.3 Camalot in a good horizontal seam if you really need it, but this is 5.7 terrain. Dec 28, 2013