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Routes in The Watchtower - First Tier

Joker, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Mothers Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shelob's Lair T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Watchtower Standard Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Pat Callis, Bob Nester, June 1969
Page Views: 585 total, 12/month
Shared By: Joe giannetti on Oct 28, 2013
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the first two pitches of Watchtower Standard. Both belays are chain anchors. The third (final) pitch is The Joker. Traverse left from the belay, you will find two flaring cracks side by side. The crack closer to the belay is the one you want to be in higher up, although You can start it from the father flaring crack and move back into it, seemed to have better gear. Follow flaring crack up to face climbing (runout 5.7), to a bolt. Clip bolt and move onto north face, good climbing and good gear finishes the climb to chain anchors. Rappel watchtower standard route, one 60m gets you down, but tie the ends!! They just make it! There are R rated variations, this is just the most popular way up The Joker.

Protection

Lots of cams up to 3 ins. Offsets would work great, although I found plenty of good placements without any offsets. Bring doubles if you like to place gear often. The runout where the crack peters out is very stable climbing. (40ft).

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Skyler Mavor  
 
It should be said that this isn't your average 5.9 route by modern standards. The gear and the climbing are challenging and would be a poor choice for someone new to the grade or style. Jun 13, 2017
Hey guys,
My partner Alex and I left some gear (A sling, alpine draw and BD stopper) just underneath the runout section on The Joker's third pitch on the Watchtower in the canyon. If there are any bold folks out there braving this climb, I'd be more than happy to trade a sixer of your choice for the returned gear. My number is 507-340-7409, tvanr507@gmail.com. Thanks! Sep 3, 2016