Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA: Pat Callis, Bob Nester, June 1969
Page Views: 1,594 total · 16/month
Shared By: Joe giannetti on Oct 28, 2013 · Updates
Admins: GRK, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

Climb the first two pitches of Watchtower Standard. Both belays are chain anchors. The third (final) pitch is The Joker. Traverse left from the belay, you will find two flaring cracks side by side. The crack closer to the belay is the one you want to be in higher up, although You can start it from the father flaring crack and move back into it, seemed to have better gear. Follow flaring crack up to face climbing (runout 5.7), to a bolt. Clip bolt and move onto north face, good climbing and good gear finishes the climb to chain anchors. Rappel watchtower standard route, one 60m gets you down, but tie the ends!! They just make it! There are R rated variations, this is just the most popular way up The Joker.

Protection

Lots of cams up to 3 ins. Offsets would work great, although I found plenty of good placements without any offsets. Bring doubles if you like to place gear often. The runout where the crack peters out is very stable climbing. (20ft).

Photos