5.12a,
Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches,
Avg: 3.4 from 14
votes
FA: Eric Schmeer & Chip Nakagawa
Colorado
> Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Creek Side
P1. Climb the first two pitches of
Solid Gold in one long, fun slab pitch. Belay at the first large ledge stretching a single 70m or simul past two more bolts to a second large ledge, 5.8.
P2. Climb past the solid gold anchor, clip the first bolt of
Spun Gold, and then traverse right on three bolts to the anchors on the face below the Golden Hammer roof, 5.8.
P3. Climb the face traversing left after a few moves on a slopey rail and then fire the roof through the crux to an amazing jug with a tricky mantle about 400 feet off the ground! 5.12-.
P4. Belay above the roof under a slightly overhanging arete. Climb fun, reachy big holds past a few bolts to a crux at the very top of the cliff band involving thin moves to a jug. After you gain the ledge, either move left to the
Spun Gold anchor (recommended) or climb past one more bolt up and slightly right to another anchor. Cleaning is easy from either, 5.11.
There are tons of rap options from the top. The easiest is to rap from the
Spun Gold anchor to the anchor on the
Playin' Hooky slab, then to the ledge, and then one more to the awkward hanging belay on the first slab pitch.
A suggestion from a MP.com user: it is also possible to walk off to the north and wrap east around the ridge line to pick up the descent gully for
Playin' Hooky/
Black Gold. This walkoff is quicker than rapping the route and avoids congestion at the "large ledge" on a busy day.
Golden, CO
Golden, CO
Green Mnt
Centennial, CO
Green Mnt
The last pitch is not a gimme! Apr 11, 2016
Green Mnt
Green Mnt
Boulder, CO
Edit: The crux bolt hanger is now replaced, along with a cable draw and steel perma-biner. Big thanks to everyone who helped! Feb 4, 2019
Golden, CO