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The Golden Hammer

5.12a, Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches,  Avg: 3.4 from 14 votes
FA: Eric Schmeer & Chip Nakagawa
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Creek Side
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work DetailsDrop down

Description

P1. Climb the first two pitches of Solid Gold in one long, fun slab pitch. Belay at the first large ledge stretching a single 70m or simul past two more bolts to a second large ledge, 5.8.

P2. Climb past the solid gold anchor, clip the first bolt of Spun Gold, and then traverse right on three bolts to the anchors on the face below the Golden Hammer roof, 5.8.

P3. Climb the face traversing left after a few moves on a slopey rail and then fire the roof through the crux to an amazing jug with a tricky mantle about 400 feet off the ground! 5.12-.

P4. Belay above the roof under a slightly overhanging arete. Climb fun, reachy big holds past a few bolts to a crux at the very top of the cliff band involving thin moves to a jug. After you gain the ledge, either move left to the Spun Gold anchor (recommended) or climb past one more bolt up and slightly right to another anchor. Cleaning is easy from either, 5.11.

Location

There are tons of rap options from the top. The easiest is to rap from the Spun Gold anchor to the anchor on the Playin' Hooky slab, then to the ledge, and then one more to the awkward hanging belay on the first slab pitch.

A suggestion from a MP.com user: it is also possible to walk off to the north and wrap east around the ridge line to pick up the descent gully for Playin' Hooky/Black Gold. This walkoff is quicker than rapping the route and avoids congestion at the "large ledge" on a busy day.

Protection

About 20 draws or so to lead the first two pitches as one. A long sling or two are nice for the last belay.

Per Monty: A 70m rope is required to rappel from the top of the route to the anchor in the middle of the slab on Playin Hooky. Watch the ends! It is possible to rap the route with a single 60m if you tram in and use intermediate anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jug!<br>
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Photo by Chip Nakagawa.
[Hide Photo] Jug! Photo by Chip Nakagawa.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Monty
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This is a fine addition to Creekside and shouldn't be missed! The rock under the roof on P3 is slightly crumbly but will clean up quickly with traffic. With the proper armory, it is possible to link P3 and 4 for an arm numbing lead. Just as good as Solid Gold but with a sweet roof and headwall! Oct 28, 2013
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] I jumped on this rig today. Excellent climbing pulling over the roof, and the last pitch is one of the best on the whole wall. I will say the mantel move before the roof is a bit reachy (not sure how a shorty would do it) and the rock is just a bit crumbly below the roof. I think the roof pitch is 12b and the last pitch is 11d. Great job, guys, nice addition! Nov 3, 2013
AOSR
Green Mnt
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Awesome, Kevin! I've seen someone quite a bit shorter than 6' pull the mantle, it's one of my favorite parts of the route! Thanks for the rating confirmation. That upper band is bullet - solid, solid gold indeed. Love this cliff! Feb 9, 2014
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] Beware rappelling - a 60 m barely got us to the slab below but not near any anchor or bolt, so we had to traverse unprotected (not my fav). Also, seems like a hold may have broke on the last pitch? Really hard for 11d.... Apr 11, 2016
AOSR
Green Mnt
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Geoff, where did you rap from? A 60 is more than enough to get down if you don't skip any of the intermediate anchors. There's the anchors at the belay of the 5.12 pitch and also anchors lower and to the right on the Playin' Hooky slab.

The last pitch is not a gimme! Apr 11, 2016
S E
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] The nut on crux bolt with the chain draw is super loose. I hand tightened it, but the next party should bring a wrench up with them. Great route overall. A few bands of chossy rock and some big loose blocks but rad movement on the last two pitches. There is a 40 pound loose block that is ready to go about 5 feet above the belay on the roof pitch. This thing needs to be trundled but probably should be lowered considering the road and popular routes below Nov 16, 2017
AOSR
Green Mnt
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I'll have to drop by and check that out. I don't remember the chain being 9 links long, but it's been quite some time. I do remember thinking the chain was necessary when bolting it but thinking it wasn't after trying it a couple times. Might just need a hanger. Anyways, thanks to you both for the heads up. Feb 3, 2019
AOSR
Green Mnt
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Brent, any interest in fixing it up yourself? I'd be happy to buy the hardware, be it a new hanger or a permadraw of some kind, etc. It'll definitely take me a while to get over there and do it myself, and you seem quite active in climbing in general and CCC in particular. PM me if so. If not, no worries of course! I'll get to it eventually :) Feb 4, 2019
Brent Kelly
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] For sure! If it’s as simple as reattaching hardware to a bolt stud, I should be able to handle that in the next week or so. I’ll PM you some thoughts and questions.

Edit: The crux bolt hanger is now replaced, along with a cable draw and steel perma-biner. Big thanks to everyone who helped! Feb 4, 2019
Dakota from North Dakota
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I was torn between 3 stars and 4. I think if the last two pitches are linked, it can confidently be called a 4 star pitch. May 15, 2021
S E
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] Got on this again today 5 years later. The choss and loose blocks that my previous comment refers to are all gone. What a sick route. Last pitch felt about the same difficulty as the roof. Jun 9, 2022