The Free Lament
Avg: 3.9 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||F.A. Tobin Kelly & Marvin McDonald F.F.A.Bill Dockins & Kim Keeting|
|Page Views:||1,467 total · 29/month|
|Shared By:||verticalabyss on Oct 27, 2013|
DescriptionThe Free Lament is perhaps one of the finer short routes in Blodgett. Perfect slab climbing up a very obvious line, and just enough gear to keep it fun.
The climb starts on a high grassy ledge at the true base of Blackfoot Dome. Look for a single bolt 70' up.
Begin climbing just right of a shallow left facing corner. Climb past a large hollow flake and find gear in a small crack in a left facing corner. Step up and left aiming for the bolt above. Follow the line of least resistance up through a wide crack in a right facing corner. Continue up to the highest good ledge with bolts and an old pine tree growing. 160' 5.8
Pitch two begins by climbing the cracks DIRECTLY above the anchor. Once about 30' up step left into the obvious left facing corner system that can be seen from the ground. Follow this thin corner with small gear to a fixed pin under a small roof. Trend up and left passed small pods to a bolted anchor on a slab. 110' 5.9
Pitch three climbs directly up from the belay following a thin seam into the overlaps. Once the seam closes up continue directly up passing an old fixed RURP and finally a good stance with a solid bolt. Pass the bolt and gain the prominent left facing corner above with a fixed pin at its base. Quality slab climbing with tricky gear placements lead upward into the final crack system leading all the way to the Pod Belay. A bolted belay on one of the more unique ledges in Blodgett Canyon. 170' 5.9+
A short pitch of 5.6 leads to the top of Blackfoot Dome. No fixed anchor exists on the summit.
LocationTwo options exist for the decent:
Rappel the route in three raps.
Walk off down the gully to the east.