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Routes in Mount Bona and Mount Churchill

East Slope/Ridge, The
Type: Alpine, 6500 ft, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 427 total, 9/month
Shared By: Taylor-B. on Oct 26, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Fly into the Klutlan Glacier at about 10,000ft. Take care in this area, for there have been a lot of crevasse falls and accidents. Aside from the dangers, these two peaks are excellent skiing objectives and the terrain allows you to put in as many camps as needed or none.
From 10,000ft ascend up to the left of a very broken rib of glacier with some seracs, to about 12,500ft. To the climbers left side of the rib can be a wind loaded ramp that provides the best snow bridges across the crevasses. 12,500ft is a good spot to make a camp.

Above 12,500ft ascend up a glaciated concave bowl, this area is still heavily crevassed and poses some avalanche danger. At 14,000ft the large caldera-plateau is reached.

Once the rim of the caldera is reached Mount Churchill is the closest and Mt. Bona is still two miles away.

Traverse a flat mile to the base of the South East Ridge of Mount Churchill. The ridge is a very aesthetic knife edge ridge to the summit.

Mount Bona requires a two mile traverse across the plateau. Once at the base, ascend up the broad slope at a 30-40 degree angle.

Protection

Expedition Kit, a ice screw, and pickets.

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