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Routes in Ignorance Is Bliss

Ignorance Is Bliss T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: BBn DBrn
Page Views: 262 total, 5/month
Shared By: brian benedon on Oct 26, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

North facing wide crack, wraps around west side and up

Location

This route is literally right on the trail, a short distance passed the turn off to the Finger. We climbed this thing in maybe 1991 with a rack purchased at a yard sale. I have no idea how hard it is, but I remember running to the top off of a small RP.
My partner rapped off of my waist, then I rapped off of his waist down the other side of the Pinnacle.
I heard that an anchor has been added.

Protection

standard rack to 5"

Photos

greg k
  5.9
greg k  
  5.9
really enjoyable climb in a spectacular setting, with some of the best rock i've encountered on the mountain... the potential up here is monstrous! Dec 4, 2017
I finally made it back 26 years after the FA.

The route is 25-30 min up trail from the finger turn off.

Ignorance is Bliss is actually 5.9, not 5.7 as originally rated, and 75' tall and deserves 2 or 3 stars.
I didn't give my-self the credit that this route deserves.
I don't know how I survived my youth.

A standard rack to 5" would be nice for this one.
Bring a long sling and a rap ring with you, or better yet add a bolt to the anchor. Dec 3, 2017
eMurdock
Tucson, Arizona
eMurdock   Tucson, Arizona
I didn't think it was an FA when Andy and I did it a couple years ago but it felt like it. This route has really good, Windy Point style rock and a spicy finish. Hand drilled a bolt at the top and I think we left a fixed nut perhaps. Way harder than 5.7 IMO. Good runout on a small, TCU. We also TRd the hard face to the left. Also, behind that tower, Andy and I did 2 or 3 other routes. One was a really good offwidth/handcrack. Another was a 2 pitch route with a 5.9ish first pitch that needed some cleaning and a 2nd pitch that we could not free - hard overhanging offwidth. We had a great day of climbing. Nov 2, 2013
We had planned to climb the Finger, but missed the turn off. We continued up the trail, then stopped to wait for a friend. I spotted this formation and jumped on it with absolutely no clue about what I was doing, or how to get back down.I had not been climbing long enough to give it a rating, and I have not been back. 5.7 is just a guess.

We recently were hiking in the area and I snapped these pics. I heard that it had been climbed recently by Eric and Andy. Oct 26, 2013