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Routes in Alcove / BNF Area

Face of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
For Whom The Bell Tolls S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
No Talent Ass Clown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Postmodernism S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spicy Tuna Roll S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mike Anderson
Page Views: 36 total, 1/month
Shared By: Colby Wayment on Oct 25, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Background: This route was equipped by Mike Anderson, but I don't know if he ever got around to actually climbing it before he moved. If he didn't, then FA is unknown. I just randomly named this the "Face of Time" from a Townes Van Zandt song. If someone knows the correct name, let me know.

Also, this route was erroneously rated 12a in the Schoolroom pamphlet I put out. I believe it to be more like 5.11c.

This route is one of the longer offerings on Schoolroom. It begins just left around the corner from "No Talent Ass Clown," climbing the north face of the large dihedral for 40 feet until ledges are obtained then climbs the west facing wall above NTAC to the top.

The bottom half (north face) climbs up some thought provoking 10+/11- terrain. The upper half provides the crux 5.11 section with close bolts.

It is possible to climb NTAC into the crux wall above, which I would think, would make the whole endeavor a letter grade easier (5.11b) though the crux is the same but the overall feel of the route would be one of less sustained attention. But take that for whatever it's worth. The whole rating stuff...is just personal opinion.

Location

Right side of the Alcove. Just left of "No Talent Ass Clown" arete.

Protection

Don't remember. Take a number of draws. Probably 9.

Photos

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TS Burton
Ogden, Utah
 
TS Burton   Ogden, Utah
 
I was told that I got the first ascent in March 2007. I named the route 'Quartzshite' and agreed with the 11c rating. At the time it was quite dirty being a new route, but I gave it 2 stars due to the quality of climbing. Oct 27, 2013