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Routes in Upper Wall

Battle of the Bulge T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prissy Prancin' T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Streakers T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tetherly Designs T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tower Dogs T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Valley Boys T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: John Garlough (Chinos)
Page Views: 507 total, 10/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 24, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the second bolted line from the right at the Upper Wall of the Real Hidden Valley. It is a good route, but those under 5'10" may find avoiding the initial roof to be more enjoyable.

A stick clip may be useful for the 1st bolt. Pull over the initial roof (crux) to the right of the 1st bolt. Taller folks may find the pull easier. You can get yellow and orange TCUs in a horizontal. Drift right getting a good flake to the right of the 2nd bolt. Find curiously good holds that keep appearing to finish at the bolt anchor.

The crux is somewhat reminiscent of the cruxes of Rush Hour and Animal Riots Activist.

Note, a shorter climber may find it better to traverse in from the left after clipping the 1st bolt for Tetherly Designs.

The rating I gave may reflect the left shoulder discomfort I've had of late.

Location

This is the 2nd bolted line from the right at the crag.

Protection

3 bolts, yellow and orange TCUs, 2 bolt anchor with links and biners.
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.12-
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.12-
The roof at the first bolt is certainly the crux. The route is easier above, yet still difficult and holds do "appear" when you really want them. May 14, 2014
chinos
  5.11c
chinos  
  5.11c
Correct. Jonathan Garlough is MP user Chinos. Dec 13, 2013