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Routes in Poe Buttress

Brothers in Arms T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Edge of Fright T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Eyes of the World T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Maelstrom, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mississippi Half-Step T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Off Your Rocker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Prequel to the Sequel T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Uptown Toodeloo T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Mike Schlauch, Mike Pennings, Oct. 8, 2013
Page Views: 690 total, 14/month
Shared By: mike schlauch on Oct 24, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Eyes of the World starts with the first section of Edge of Fright's second pitch. At the horizontal where Edge of Fright goes left, step up and right into the obvious, dis-continuous crack system. Piece together the puzzle, stepping back and forth between Poe's rightmost cracks and the next crack to the left. A 3.5 or 4 cam may help protect the initial section, although we didn't have any of those on the FA.

The crux is probably where the first discontinuous crack section ends and forces you to reach left with a committing move above good gear. Have a finger-size piece ready to place. Switch back to the right crack near the top and then continue to the Mississippi Half Step anchors.

This is dedicated to Steve Dieckhoff. He and I hunted around for a new route on the right side of Poe in the early '90s, getting shut down on what is now Prequel to the Sequel (nice job on that FA!). We never completed a new route, so when Prequel was recently climbed, I decided to go have another look.

If anyone knows if this has been done previously (Noel? Olaf? Rufus?), then I will edit the FA. It would be nice to keep the Grateful Dead theme alive on Poe Buttress. RIP, Steve.

Protection

Basically the same as Edge of Fright, with the addition of a 3.5 or 4 cam. A 70m rope with some extra long runners or double ropes is recommended.
Cor
Cor  
Nice work, Mike! Must be the one you told me aboutÂ….

I was livin' it up in Bishop CA eating 3 catered meals a day, all while you were up there hoping the runouts didn't turn you into a catered rock meal. ;)

Cheers! Oct 24, 2013