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Soft Touch

5.10d, Trad, 80 ft,  Avg: 2.8 from 5 votes
FA: Alan Watts, Kent Benesch, Oct 28, 1983
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (z) Lower Gorge > W Side > (2) Wildfire Wall

Description

Stem and jam your way up to an obvious flake, then perform some funky stem sequence to get to an easier stembox (crux), follow the crack to the top as it goes from hand to fist.

Location

The obvious corner between Badfinger and On The Road

Protection

Watts guide says gear to 3", the top section widens up to 4", though it's short. However it would be useful to have something there to protect a thin traverse to the On The Road anchors. I continued up to the top of the pillar and traversed on good jugs, then downclimbed into the anchor on good hand crack

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Very thin pro at the crux, but not actually dangerous. If you have a weak left shoulder, this might be one to avoid - very shouldery move at the crux.

A good variation is to climb "Soft Finger," where you do the first half of Soft Touch through the crux, then traverse right 6 feet at the horizontal rail, and climb through the high quality top of Badfinger. Doesn't make the route really any harder, but you avoid the wide climbing on sharp rock with some birdshit which is the second half of Soft Touch.

If you want to TR this route, do it from the Badfinger anchor, not from the On The Road anchor. Aug 31, 2014