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Peanut Butter & Chocolate
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Sport, 175 ft (53 m) |
FA: | Jeff Mahoney, Chris Wing, Katie Martin, Alex Lau, Carole Christianson, Shin Nimura, Mark Buntaine and Julian Lim |
Page Views: | 3,785 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | Jeff Mahoney on Oct 23, 2013 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
PB&C takes the long line from the ground on the dark rock (the chocolate), then crosses "Krugerrands" to get out on the lighter and slightly crumblier rock face left (the peanut butter). Hit the nice, thin ledge and move up through the slight bulge (careful of the obvious death flake on your left---the crumbling cookie---which most likely will be gone or at least diminished before too long). Pass a few thoughtful bits on the way up before the angle eases and you reach one of the best view top-outs in the Hills. Good movement, lots of mileage and sporty runouts make this a nice companion piece to the other chocolate-inspired routes on the formation.
Descent
New 1/2" Fixe ring anchor and 3/8" hanger & chain installed to replace the snapped aluminum foil Kong-Bonatti with its companion spinner and laundry cord rap station.
40' rappel off the back (south) of the block, then work your way right (west) down and then through the cool tunnel/cave system which spits you out on the slabs above the parking area. Walk off with one 3rd class downclimb. You can also rap an additional 25' down and east and then walk through the cave system on that side. It's about the same amount of time either way. (With two ropes you could rap down and into the chimney, but then you'll spend another hour or more retrieving your fully stuck rope.)
Descent
New 1/2" Fixe ring anchor and 3/8" hanger & chain installed to replace the snapped aluminum foil Kong-Bonatti with its companion spinner and laundry cord rap station.
40' rappel off the back (south) of the block, then work your way right (west) down and then through the cool tunnel/cave system which spits you out on the slabs above the parking area. Walk off with one 3rd class downclimb. You can also rap an additional 25' down and east and then walk through the cave system on that side. It's about the same amount of time either way. (With two ropes you could rap down and into the chimney, but then you'll spend another hour or more retrieving your fully stuck rope.)
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