Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,565 total · 57/month
Shared By: Shadrock on Oct 21, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

You & This Route

21 Opinions

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This is a very common beginner's climb at Great Falls. Climb the dihedral and be on the lookout for finger locks in the corner. I've watched numerous newbies get a bit frustrated on this - somewhat technical - moderate. So if you're introducing somebody who's completely new to climbing think about some of the more straight-forward, ladder-like, climbing to the left as a warm up. Beware that excessive rain can swell the Potomac and flood this area. For more information see the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club's "Climber's Guide to the Great Falls of the Potomac."


Access the route via the first left-hand (north) departure from the River Trail: about 200 yards from the beginning of trail as it leaves the large open area with the picnic tables.


Toprope or boulder. Most people set a typical Great Falls TR with vast amounts of runners or static line but there are a few good cracks in the pod at the top of the route for gear anchors.


Eli .
Eli .   GMC3500
A good solo if you're just around the area and need something to do. Jul 16, 2015
Sterling, VA
bkozak   Sterling, VA
In addition to being just about the best first toprope climb you can do in Great Falls, as it was for me, it is also a fantastic trad lead despite not being listed as trad on MP. The thin crack that goes up the face to the right of the corner eats stoppers like candy and has some great places for tricams as well. Best to leave your cams at home for this one. General consensus is that they are suspect with the rock here, but mainly there are really no good placements for them on this climb. Sep 19, 2016
Have to agree with bkozak. This is an excellent trad line if you use passive gear. It was my first trad lead at GF, and it really does eat stoppers. Jan 11, 2017
The local guidebook has this as 5.4 not 5.3. A single MP user was able to change the historical grade. She's entitled to her opinion, and I don't entirely disagree, but I really dislike how MP's system does not respect or at least record the historical grade. So I'm not trying to start a barn-burner over 5.3 or 5.4, but I do want the record to show that this is 5.4 according to the FA and was 5.4 here when originally posted.

All that said, it is an easier 5.4 than some others in the park. Aug 16, 2018