Type: TR, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 525 total · 8/month
Shared By: Aaron Formella on Oct 21, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start to the right of Chimney Crack. Climb directly up to the anchor of Step Aside on sloping edges. This route is fun and challenging. The crux is down low on the climb but the crimping is sustained over its short length. I've heard the crimps down low described as trying to grab "rounded ice cubes." One of the best at Rocklands and certainly the most physically challenging.

Location

First climb to the right of Chimney Crack at the Rocklands area of Cerro Cabrillo.

Protection

Toprope only. It would make a fun lead if it were bolted.

Photos

- No Photos -
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  5.11b
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  5.11b
Anyone know the story behind the old rusty chopped bolt at the base of this climb? Would anyone be opposed to making this into a lead climb by adding a few bolts? Oct 21, 2013
A Johnson
Atascadero
  5.11b
A Johnson   Atascadero
  5.11b
Please do! This is the best route in Rocklands and the area could use harder leads. Apr 13, 2015
Sean P. Sullivan
Clovis, Ca
Sean P. Sullivan   Clovis, Ca
This really would make a great lead! Aaron, have you looked more into making that happen? Mar 1, 2016
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  5.11b
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  5.11b
I've looked into it a little bit. It looks like it was bolted once before and the bolts were chopped for whatever reason. There are rusted studs remaining in the holes. It would be a tough lead since there aren't any good clipping holds or stances. The spacing between the old bolts 1 and 2 is too much and could result in a ground fall. If I were to rebolt this climb, I would try to use the existing holes which would require purchasing a core drill to bore around the existing studs and I would consider placing bolt 2 lower and making the existing old bolt 2 into bolt 3. I still would like to do this but the cost of a core-drilling adapter, bit, and water-cooling system is prohibitive of it currently. I agree that making this into a lead would really enhance the area, which has a relative paucity of harder lead climbs. Mar 1, 2016