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Routes in Rock Land

Chimney Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney Sweep TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corner Route TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fly, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kermit Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
One Bolt TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Potato Head TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Secret of Foo TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Step Aside TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Step Up TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tan Streak TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Corner 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Type: TR, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 455 total · 8/month
Shared By: Aaron Formella on Oct 21, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start to the right of Chimney Crack. Climb directly up to the anchor of Step Aside on sloping edges. This route is fun and challenging. The crux is down low on the climb but the crimping is sustained over its short length. I've heard the crimps down low described as trying to grab "rounded ice cubes." One of the best at Rocklands and certainly the most physically challenging.

Location

First climb to the right of Chimney Crack at the Rocklands area of Cerro Cabrillo.

Protection

Toprope only. It would make a fun lead if it were bolted.

Photos

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Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
 
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
 
Anyone know the story behind the old rusty chopped bolt at the base of this climb? Would anyone be opposed to making this into a lead climb by adding a few bolts? Oct 21, 2013
A Johnson
Paso Robles
  5.11b
A Johnson   Paso Robles
  5.11b
Please do! This is the best route in Rocklands and the area could use harder leads. Apr 13, 2015
Sean P. Sullivan
Clovis, Ca
Sean P. Sullivan   Clovis, Ca
This really would make a great lead! Aaron, have you looked more into making that happen? Mar 1, 2016
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
 
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
 
I've looked into it a little bit. It looks like it was bolted once before and the bolts were chopped for whatever reason. There are rusted studs remaining in the holes. It would be a tough lead since there aren't any good clipping holds or stances. The spacing between the old bolts 1 and 2 is too much and could result in a ground fall. If I were to rebolt this climb, I would try to use the existing holes which would require purchasing a core drill to bore around the existing studs and I would consider placing bolt 2 lower and making the existing old bolt 2 into bolt 3. I still would like to do this but the cost of a core-drilling adapter, bit, and water-cooling system is prohibitive of it currently. I agree that making this into a lead would really enhance the area, which has a relative paucity of harder lead climbs. Mar 1, 2016

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