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5.8, Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m),
Avg: 2.2 from 25 votes
Montana > Southwest Region > Spire Rock > Queen (Southeast Corner)
This climb is the middle of the three cracks on the face and heads up a large flake feature near the top. The beginning can take spooky gear because the rock is very friable in the back of the crack.
Middle of the three cracks on this face.
Gear from .4-3. 2 bolt anchor with chains.
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Blue Line: Cruise Control (5.10b) Red Line: Automatic Pilot (5.8) Green Line: Beginner's Lead (5.7) - starts on same face as other climbs
Follows the obvious hand crack up the right facing corner.
Ben going Automatic
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Anchors are spaced a little far apart from one another. But one side has slightly longer chains so you can still equalize an anchor using just draws.
May 18, 2020