Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Routes in Afterburner Wall
|Eliminator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft|
|FA:||Paul Van Betten, Randy Marsh - 1983|
|Page Views:||639 total, 13/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Oct 20, 2013|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionDespite the fact that one must pay the toll of a crappy slog up to this wall, Eliminator delivers some high quality rock climbing. Primarily a finger crack, there are occasional face holds as is typical of Red Rocks "crack climbing". It is a long pitch and has several cruxy sections but also some great rests.
The obvious right-leaning finger crack and best looking line on the cliff.
The belayer may wish to anchor in or tie-off to a tree before getting started. Climb up a low-angle face to the main wall, tie off shrubbery, and delicately fiddle in some overhead RP's. They seem OK, but the rock is the white, sugary sort. Perform a committing stand up move, and then pray the edge of the crack doesn't snap as you pad your feet up a little higher to reach your first solid gear placement. This is immediately followed by a hard crux. After this, expect alternating sections of finger jamming and good rests for about 80'. The last 30' of the route finds the varnish disappearing and the rock turning rather bad, but fortunately the climbing eases and limited pro is still available.
Belay at a fixed stopper anchor in the crack (consider bringing more tat and WD40 for the fixed 'biners).
This is a really great route but I'm going to stick my neck out and say that it is not the best finger crack in Red Rocks. That honor goes to Seduction Line.