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Routes in Real Hidden Valley

Clam Power S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Debra S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Natural Weaknesses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Odelay S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paper Tiger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tropicalia S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: left var: Deb Thompson, LP. Right var: Deb Thompson, Dave Rogers, LP
Page Views: 157 total · 3/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 18, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

There is a left line on this lower crag. Perhaps it's been done. The left variation goes fairly easily. The right variation is a bit harder.

Ascend a natural weakness on the left side. Once at the top of the crack, you can swing around to the left on easy terrain.

Or, you can try the slot past the bush passing a bulge. This was a challenging 10- PG-13. Note, this may be easier for taller folks. It could feel harder for thicker folks. It sort of feels Vedauwoo-esque. I was considering a bolt on the traverse, but one can do this on gear...with some spice...so no bolt. It's a bit challenging to get to be able to place pro on the slot, don't miss the good right foot hold.

This one sort of called out to be climbed after flailing on a thin slab TR probe.

Location

This is on the left side of the lower crag and to the left of Tropicalia.

Protection

There are 2 bolts at the top of Tropicalia for anchors.

To do the easier TR, set directionals with a #3.5 and/or #4 Camalot and 4' slings.

To do the harder TR, directionals with a #3.5 Camalot & 4' sling, #5 Camalot (old size), and #4 Bigbro will reduce swing.

To lead the right version (which will be interesting), some gear possibilities include: #0.75 Camalot, wire, orange TCU, wire, #3.5 Camalot, yellow Alien, #5 Camalot (old size), #4 Bigbro.

Photos

chinos  
Nice... we never tried this. A fun area to get away from the crowds! Oct 21, 2013
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
I did the easiest variation and only placed a #2 and a 0.4 Camalot. I used a 4' sling, but I did not see where a #4 or old #3.5 could be used. The route is not great but is something else to play on after Tropicalia. Oct 3, 2016

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