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Routes in Trilogy Buttress

Along Came a Strider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frodo Lives S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gollum's Column S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lord of the Slings S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Precious T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nine in Black S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ranger Walk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Return of the King S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadow and Flame S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shards of Narsil S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown name S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wizardly Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jim Knight, Christian Knight
Page Views: 709 total, 14/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 16, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Surprisingly solid despite the name, this route is actually a pleasant outing. It's really no more chossy than any other route on the main face.

From the top of one of the second pitches of Trilogy walk (gingerly) across to the base of the main wall. Find the bolt to your left (on a more-or-less east-facing aspect) and head up. There is a bolted anchor just above the chossy v-slot you can see.

From the anchor head a bit right and up through some sharp, broken, yet mostly solid terrain to the top. The broken nature of the rock provides a plethora of holds.

Just before the top things get really broken and a bit nerve-wracking, but the climbing is relatively easy.

This could probably be climbed as one pitch but the rope drag would likely be quite annoying.

Location

The first line of bolts right of the Gollum's Column formation.

From the top of one of the the second pitches up Trilogy walk to the base of the main wall and climb the left bolts.

Protection

4 bolts for the first pitch, 9 bolts for the second pitch.

Photos

Tristan Mayfield
SLC, UT
  5.8
Tristan Mayfield   SLC, UT
  5.8
I would highly reccomend breaking the third pitch into a third and fourth. If you don't, by the end of the pitch you feel like you're dragging up a 50 pound weight due to rope drag. Also, I'm pretty sure that the daytime grade is accurate, but I'd say that the night grade has to be at least 5.10d. At least, that's what it feels like when it's dark, windy, and you're not sure if you're going to beat the rain that's coming in or not. Overall a really fun climb though! Jul 16, 2014