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Rhinoplasty

5.12c, Sport,  Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
FA: Justin Nelson/Darren Flack
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork C… > White Wave Wall
Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb the first 4 bolts of Edge of Chaos, then go left for a few bolts, get the nostril, pull the roof to the arête, then head to Knuckle up's anchors. really mellow fun climbing to cruxy section pulling the roof, to really sinker pockets. the last 3 bolts were put up probably 25 years ago, so we finished the nose job and bolted it to the ground.

Beta addendum: Right hand undercling, Clip, stand tall and grab high crimp/pocket just left of arete.  High heel hook and right hand on whatever it’ll stick on. Right hand bump a couple times to arete. Throw left to pocket. (It’s not a throw from the nostril)

Location

start on edge of chaos and head left to the inner chaos and end on Knuckle up's anchors

Protection

bolts, and mostly fixed (where ya need it)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

not my picture
[Hide Photo] not my picture
pulling the crux
[Hide Photo] pulling the crux
new route in red
[Hide Photo] new route in red

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

bsmoot
[Hide Comment] The old upper bolts were supposed to be a route/project that branched off to the right of Knuckle Up. They're my bolts. Branching off from Edge of Chaos seems like a better way to go...airy looking route! Oct 17, 2013
Nolan Ingersoll
Salt Lake City, Ut
[Hide Comment] I've talked to a number of people who have been on this in the last year/year and a half and it definitely seems like something broke off for the roof move. After grabbing the 'nostril' there isn't another hold in the area, the left hand pocket you can see in the crux photo is a fair bit away from the undercling, throwing to it would be heinous. There could be some hidden cryptic beta somewhere to make this .12c but I haven't heard of anyone unlocking it recently. Apr 15, 2019
Flacker
Lander, WY
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] yeah Nolan it was pretty difficult to unlock the beta. I was unable to figure it out with many tries but the first ascensionist was able to piece it together. I believe he is going to head up there soon to check out to see if it is all there still. Apr 17, 2019
Benjamin Eaton
Sandy, UT
[Hide Comment] I would love it if the FA'er of this route could chime in and let us know if anything has changed about this route. Pulling the roof looked crazy hard if I wasn't overlooking anything. Luckily there are two perma-draws at that section for easy bailing once you admit defeat. Jun 20, 2019
Flacker
Lander, WY
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Ben i spoke with my friend who got the FA. He revisited these route at the end of April. It’s all there. It’s a cryptic crux and you got to be willing to pull hard Jun 20, 2019