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Routes in Gorilla Rock

Ant Crack, Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ant Crack, Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Gorilla Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ko-Ko Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 90 total · 2/month
Shared By: Pavel Burov on Oct 16, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Dirt road winter closures Details


Face climb around the right crack. Good lead, easy topropable by pulling through the only 5.6 (a bit awkward) move in a chimney on a North side of the rock.

Rappel to the North from rappel rings left to TR South side anchor.


Right to Ant Crack, Left.


Smaller is better. Brass (small) nuts and a couple of fingers to thin hands size cams.


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Pavel Burov
Pavel Burov   Russia
This route was my the very first trad lead back in 2011.

The last Sunday on May 10th, 2015 I reclimbed it while having a fun nostalgia party at Phantom Spires. I was really screwed up and a bit frightened - the only protection for the most of the climb was a set of brass offset nuts. And I know for sure I had no single brass nut in 2011. Had no idea how it was possible to protect the climb 4 years ago. Spent some time to unscrew things up. Three largest DMM Offset Brass Nuts are of the same size as three the smallest Wild Country Superlight Rocks and I had a set of WC Superlight Rocks back that days. Thus my protection beta from 2011 is set of WC Superlight Rocks + some fingers to thin hands cams, from 2015 - three or four largest DMM Offset Brass Nuts + a set of nuts and/or tricams. May 14, 2015