Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Gorilla Rock

Ant Crack, Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ant Crack, Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Gorilla Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ko-Ko Box T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 90 total · 2/month
Shared By: Pavel Burov on Oct 16, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Dirt road winter closures Details

Description

Face climb around the right crack. Good lead, easy topropable by pulling through the only 5.6 (a bit awkward) move in a chimney on a North side of the rock.

Rappel to the North from rappel rings left to TR South side anchor.

Location

Right to Ant Crack, Left.

Protection

Smaller is better. Brass (small) nuts and a couple of fingers to thin hands size cams.

Photos

- No Photos -
Pavel Burov
Russia
 
Pavel Burov   Russia
 
This route was my the very first trad lead back in 2011.

The last Sunday on May 10th, 2015 I reclimbed it while having a fun nostalgia party at Phantom Spires. I was really screwed up and a bit frightened - the only protection for the most of the climb was a set of brass offset nuts. And I know for sure I had no single brass nut in 2011. Had no idea how it was possible to protect the climb 4 years ago. Spent some time to unscrew things up. Three largest DMM Offset Brass Nuts are of the same size as three the smallest Wild Country Superlight Rocks and I had a set of WC Superlight Rocks back that days. Thus my protection beta from 2011 is set of WC Superlight Rocks + some fingers to thin hands cams, from 2015 - three or four largest DMM Offset Brass Nuts + a set of nuts and/or tricams. May 14, 2015