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> Eight-Mile Buttress,…
Mr Tremendous
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 13
votes
Routes in Eight-Mile Buttress, Lower
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Lazy Boy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mr Tremendous T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ms Tremendous T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pimp Juice S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Tree Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Lenz, Viktor Kramer, Alicia Kramar, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 2,128 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Oct 16, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
This route is tremendous.
Some great slab climbing
There is some route finding, trending right past a couple of bolts, traverse more left up a ramp to a corner where you may be lured into a right facing corner with a fixed pin (10d), pass more to the right side staying on the face, make some steep face moves up an arrete to a belay. Or I have also stayed on the right side of the arete using a nice finger crack till you come to more bolts with thin face crux getting to anchor.1st pitch is about 115'
Move the belay diagonally left over sandy bench to next buttress on it's left end. There is a bolt on the slab above marking the route. Some good cracks, and then up and over a wave of granite with hidden holds, There is some confusion here, you can go straight up past a bolt, some chicken heads, a thin crux and 4 bolts up to the anchor, or right on more horizontal crack/flakes, pass another old bolt and end up on the far right end of slab, get back on the slab to pass 2 more bolts up to the anchor.
2nd pitch is about 130'
Some great slab climbing
There is some route finding, trending right past a couple of bolts, traverse more left up a ramp to a corner where you may be lured into a right facing corner with a fixed pin (10d), pass more to the right side staying on the face, make some steep face moves up an arrete to a belay. Or I have also stayed on the right side of the arete using a nice finger crack till you come to more bolts with thin face crux getting to anchor.1st pitch is about 115'
Move the belay diagonally left over sandy bench to next buttress on it's left end. There is a bolt on the slab above marking the route. Some good cracks, and then up and over a wave of granite with hidden holds, There is some confusion here, you can go straight up past a bolt, some chicken heads, a thin crux and 4 bolts up to the anchor, or right on more horizontal crack/flakes, pass another old bolt and end up on the far right end of slab, get back on the slab to pass 2 more bolts up to the anchor.
2nd pitch is about 130'
Location
The right side toe of lower 8 mile buttress. The Tree route is about 100 feet left.The route begins at the toe of a black slab. You will see a line of bolts above. Mrs. Tremendous goes up and left, this goes more to the right. They share the same start with a fixed pin. Mr. cuts right and has old SMC hangers on button heads.
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