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Routes in Eight-Mile Buttress, Lower

Lazy Boy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr Tremendous T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tree Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Lenz, Viktor Kramer, Alicia Kramar, 1989
Page Views: 786 total, 15/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Oct 16, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is tremendous.
Some great slab climbing
There is some route finding, trending right past a couple of bolts, traverse more left up a ramp to a corner where you may be lured into a right facing corner with a fixed pin (10d), pass more to the right side staying on the face, make some steep face moves up an arrete to a belay. Or I have also stayed on the right side of the arete using a nice finger crack till you come to more bolts with thin face crux getting to anchor.1st pitch is about 115'

Move the belay diagonally left over sandy bench to next buttress on it's left end. There is a bolt on the slab above marking the route. Some good cracks, and then up and over a wave of granite with hidden holds, There is some confusion here, you can go straight up past a bolt, some chicken heads, a thin crux and 4 bolts up to the anchor, or right on more horizontal crack/flakes, pass another old bolt and end up on the far right end of slab, get back on the slab to pass 2 more bolts up to the anchor.
2nd pitch is about 130'

Location

The right side toe of lower 8 mile buttress. The Tree route is about 100 feet left.The route begins at the toe of a black slab. You will see a line of bolts above. Mrs. Tremendous goes up and left, this goes more to the right. They share the same start with a fixed pin. Mr. cuts right and has old SMC hangers on button heads.

Protection

gear to 2",6 bolts.
Bolted anchor at top of 1st pitch
Bolted anchor at top of 2nd pitch
Good to use long slings( even on the bolts) for the wandering back and forth.

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
 
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
 
glad to have you comment on this John, I don't know why more people don't do this route, maybe they just don't use MP. As you know I am a slab run-out wimp, but this route is comfortable for me. Apr 8, 2015
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
I absolutely love old school, thought provoking climbs like this! Mr. T is one of my favorites in the icicle. Linked to up with Middle 8 Mile and Upper 8 Mile and you have a great day out way above the icicle fray. Apr 7, 2015
Jessica T
seattle, wa
Jessica T   seattle, wa
Don't get lured into new bolts on the first pitch, staying on the right is the way to go! The left is dirty. Clip the button head SMC hangers and go! Bolts could use replacing. Fun route. 2 Pitch is interesting route finding too. Jun 20, 2014