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Routes in Upper Cliff

Gypsy Cafe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mettle TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mike Robinson 10/13 Rope Solo
Page Views: 57 total · 1/month
Shared By: Mike Robinson on Oct 15, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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The first route I noticed when exploring the area with Jay Knower in early September 2013. This line is the most direct and obvious line to ascend The Upper Cliff. It is also the same crack that forms Gollums Escape (located inside of Gandalf Cave). Climb the first 20 foot section with lay backing then mantle onto the low angle shelf and get ready for the off width. The 20 foot off width section is the best and most difficult part of the route. Getting into the off width is the first crux as it bulges out to give you blind footing. Towards the top there is a good hand hold inside the crack. Finish the off width and continue up the Low angle slab another 20 feet and either cut left and hike off or mount another 4 foot wall and top out to hike off.


This is the most obvious line you will see the moment you arrive at the Upper Cliff. The easiest way off is to climb all the way to the top after mounting the last 4 foot wall. You can also scramble left or right at the 4 foot wall (above this wall is a 2 foot loose rock which needs to be avoided and will be removed soon). If you go left you will get to the entrance of The Gandalf Cave.


Mid sized stoppers and #3-#6 cams will give adequate protection.