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Routes in Don Juan Spire

Don Juan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unknown (Southwest Arete) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Yesterday's News T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2
Yesterday's News Variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 492 total, 10/month
Shared By: jakobi on Oct 15, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

I'm timid of adding a route that I don't know the name or FA information but figure if a party was looking to summit Don Juan tower this is great way of doing so. My partner and I were planning on climbing Yesterday's News but started up the wrong route, the climbing was so good that we decided to just continue up it and ended up at the summit having climbed two great tower pitches.
Start with hands in the corner climbing 20 ft to a splitter hand crack, follow this crack system which stays pretty moderate, climbing mostly hands but with interesting features thrown in. You'll reach a section that climbs through a slot, start looking out right for a nice ledge with a drilled-angle anchors. The rock on this pitch is great and climbs really well.
The second pitch climbs left back into the slot which pinches shut eventually forcing a slight runout to a star drive and fun face climbing at 5.10. The grade eases off and there are several gear placements until reaching a short corner with a finger crack. Pull the corner and you're at the summit.
Feel free to add info if you've got any on this great route.

Location

Walk to the SW corner of the tower and look for a corner crack with a bolt up and left of it. The route starts in this corner but does not follow the bolted line but instead climbs the corner per the route description.

Protection

A standard rack with a couple extra hand-sized pieces plus a handful of runners should suffice.

Photos

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ben jammin
Moab, UT
 
ben jammin   Moab, UT
 
I will second that this is a very quality route. Look for a single bolt that protects what looks like THE line up the W face. We were going for a link up so we opted for the hand crack to the right which proved to be one of the better tower routes I've done. Perfect hands to heads up sandy face climbing.. Does it get any better? Oct 16, 2013