Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 108 total · 2/month
Shared By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Oct 15, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Dirt road winter closures Details


The route ascends the obvious chimney splitting the two tiers of the east face of the Flathead. The route has two sections: the first tier, a proper deep chimney, and the second tier, the chockstone.

The actual chimneying on this route is easier than the crux, surmounting the chockstone (5.6).

This is an adventuresome and easy route to the top.


This is the obvious chimney on the east face of the Flathead. The Flathead is the formation to the north of Upper Spire.

The approach to the start of the route is straight forward: simply find your way up the slope to the base of the chimney.

The descent is easy. Walk off the north side of the formation. Hang a left and find your way down between Lost John and Flathead.


Protecting the first part of the chimney may be possible, though I did not. After the large ledge, on the second part of the chimney, small cams protect the crux.

There exists many options for a traditional anchor on the summit.


Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
A photo of the route:
Oct 15, 2013