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Routes in Purina Crags

Caucasian Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chow Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack or Lieback S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
El Caliente T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Existential Exit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Glass Eye T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harlequin T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Late for Dinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Make mine a bold one T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Eye T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Orange Mustard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ordinary Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ordinary Crack Varation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Staring at the Sun S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Surveillance of Assailants T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
just another sucker on the vine T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
poison ivy crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
small change T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Lee Cunningham
Page Views: 925 total · 15/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Oct 15, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

I am tempted to rate this route 5.9, this may be the most sandbagged 5.8 in Leavenworth, but in keeping with the guide book it will be a good challenge for the 5.8 leader.
I don't always tape up, but this is better with tape gloves.

Location

After passing a very large roof along the Careno trail Glass Eye stands out as the nice looking vertical hand crack that arches up to the right.

Protection

gear to 4". You may want 2 each Camalot #.5, #2, #3.
there is a bolt for the bolted face climb One Eye that you can clip up near the top
The old bolted anchor is a 20' traverse to the right and is 1/4" rusty bolts and old webbing.
You could also continue up One Eye at the bolt to another bolt above the ledge, to hand crack through a roof to a new SS anchor ( 10b).

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