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Routes in Torre Firenze

"Westkante," Glueck Arete. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1650 ft, 14 pitches
FA: Ferdinand Glueck, et. al. 1920
Page Views: 92 total, 2/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Oct 14, 2013
Admins: Tim Wolfe

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The route begins on the Northwest side of the formation and after 3 pitches, reaches the arĂȘte; move to the right (the crux is a traverse beneath some overhangs on a steep face on pitch 3 and is 5.6/5.7, UIAA Gr. IV+). Another very steep section and overhang is overcome before reaching another bolted anchor. At this point the difficulty decreases along with the angle of the rock. The remaining 8-9 leads are on very good, juggy rock.


The formation is reached from Wolkenstein/Daunei parking area by a path leading to the Juac Hut and continuing on towards the Regensburger hut. Look for a climbers path that leaves the trail and ascends through the trees to the scree slope beneath the formation. Approach the left side as viewed from afar.
The descent continues over the summit to the Stevia Plateau and a climbers path is followed to the Juac Hut, and then to the car.


Most belay stances (but not all!) are equipped with either cemented-in-place pitons or bolts. Bring a normal alpine rack and runners for threads or tie-offs for knobs.
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.6 PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.6 PG13
A very nice route. The Kohler-Memmel guide "Classic Dolomite Climbs" calls it the "North-West Arete of Torre Firenze", and speaks about "some belays equipped with bolts" but the only bolts we saw (2006) were at the top of the 2nd pitch and neither the party ahead of us, nor we used them. I think, just because they weren't in a particularly useful place. With the increase in bolting since then, I would have no reason to doubt the belays have now been equipped. Once we got on the route, and especially above P3, I would just run out until I saw a quick-to-set-up belay, preferably one that didn't use pieces from my limited rack (e.g. a spire or solid boulder to sling) and stopped to belay there.

My recollection is 98% of this route is 5.4 or easier; My notes on the topo list 1 5.2 pitch, 1 "5.2-5.3" pitch, and 7 5.3 pitches. On the whole 11-12 pitches there really were only two moves (not pitches) worth talking about: one crux came about P3 or 4 and was a thin crack in sort of a flaring corner. I gave it a 5.6 / 5.6+, good pro.(I'm a bit confused by the description of the crux given in the DESCRIPTION. Maybe it was a flaring corner through an OH and I forgot the OH'ing part...???)

Somewhere higher there was another semi-crux protected by a gold (#2) Camalot. My "PG-13" rating is for the 5.3 - 5.4 stuff, and even there I guess if you wanted to you could get in good pro; we were just cruising along.

Jul 31, 2016