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Routes in Behind Zig Zag Boulder

Big Body V1 5
Brand new Miura's V3 6A
Brown Noise V2- 5+
Crescent, The V3-4 6A+
Cutting Glass. V0 4
Good Head V1+ 5
Little Weapon V2 5+
Pooping diamonds V7-8 7B PG13
Welcome To Heartbreak V3-4 6A+
Wood-Pile., The V1 5
Type: Boulder, 13 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 422 total · 8/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Oct 12, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This is an aesthetic and technical line that follows a beautiful, arching flake up a tall, slabby face.

Start sitting at the bottom of the flake with your left hand on a good hidden sidepull and your right hand wherever you prefer on the obvious flake. Pull off the ground and angle rightwards via some technical foot moves to eventually reach the arete with your right hand. Continue bumping your right hand up the arete and doing whatever you can with your left to keep from barndooring. Clever footwork and strong body tension will allow you to reach a good crimp below the lip with your left hand. From there, locate some good top out holds and figure out a way to turn the lip. Done!

While this climb has not been previously documented, it's obvious that it has been climbed before. I met a guy named Pete (from NY) who used to live in the area and he said he climbed the problem 5-10 years ago and thought he might have done the first ascent, given how much cleaning he had to do. If anybody has any more history or information, feel free to share!

Location

Located just beyond 'Welcome To Heartbreak'. In other words, walk directly uphill from either the left side of 'Moose Tracks' or 'Moat Crack'. This boulder is about 100 feet uphill of these climbs and is easily identified by the obvious crescent flake feature.

Protection

Two or three pads. A spotter is useful as well.

Photos

Sent the direct today. Entered it as "pooping diamonds", so bring a tight core and pads! Apr 29, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Footage of this problem starts at 7:19

vimeo.com/79209418 Nov 12, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Matt-- I figured it made the most sense to put this problem in this section/area, but if you think it'd make more sense somewhere else, let me know. Oct 13, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
There is potential for this line to be climbed without using the arete out right. This would likely be quite difficult (v9 or harder perhaps?) but it would also likely yield an amazing technical line, though somewhat contrived.

The line is relatively clean but could use a bit of a scrub in spots, most notably on the top out. I'll try to do it next time I'm out there, but just wanted to give a heads up in the meantime.

I shot some video of the line, which I'll post up at some point in the next few weeks. Oct 13, 2013