Type: Boulder, 13 ft (4 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,150 total · 11/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Oct 12, 2013
Admins: Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

This is an aesthetic and technical line that follows a beautiful, arching flake up a tall, slabby face.

Start sitting at the bottom of the flake with your left hand on a good hidden sidepull and your right hand wherever you prefer on the obvious flake. Pull off the ground and angle rightwards via some technical foot moves to eventually reach the arete with your right hand. Continue bumping your right hand up the arete and doing whatever you can with your left to keep from barndooring. Clever footwork and strong body tension will allow you to reach a good crimp below the lip with your left hand. From there, locate some good top out holds and figure out a way to turn the lip. Done!

While this climb has not been previously documented, it's obvious that it has been climbed before. I met a guy named Pete (from NY) who used to live in the area and he said he climbed the problem 5-10 years ago and thought he might have done the first ascent, given how much cleaning he had to do. If anybody has any more history or information, feel free to share!

Location

Located just beyond 'Welcome To Heartbreak'. In other words, walk directly uphill from either the left side of 'Moose Tracks' or 'Moat Crack'. This boulder is about 100 feet uphill of these climbs and is easily identified by the obvious crescent flake feature.

Protection

Two or three pads. A spotter is useful as well.

Photos