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Routes in Baboon Crag

Banana Town T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gecko, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jungle Gym T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey Seems Willing, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Steve Glotfelty, 1988
Page Views: 209 total, 4/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Oct 12, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

Jungle gym pursues several variations, and the 5.9-5.10c options listed in the new Tahoe guide (Jackson) are fairly unclear to this climber in their exact paths.

First clip a bolt from the ground that protects the low crux. Left or right? Perhaps left is 5.9. The right, direct variation off the bolt, however, is far harder than 5.10c, and seems more like something to work with a boulder pad.

Delicate traversing and counter-pressure climbing up and right over an overhanging block to gain a horizontal crack using a .4-.5" piece to protect a ground fall after the bolt follows.

From here, at least three variations appear to exist:

1) straight up over an overhanging bulge and then a shallow crack to the top

2) right and then left, to largely circumvent the bulge

or,

3) keep traversing right and then eventually up

It's a jungle gym!

Location

The climb furthest right at Baboon Crag, starts at a severely undercut section leading to the dihedral formed by a large overhanging block and just right of The Monkey Seems Willing.

Protection

fingers to 3", one bolt, and a 1"-3" gear anchor at the top

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