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Routes in Crater Crag of North Quarry

Crater Cat TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Debhedral TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Doug's Variation T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Fragile X TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gig, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Golden Arete S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Misty S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mountain Lion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rancid S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sending Choss TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: TR, 65 ft
FA: Deb Thompson, LP
Page Views: 338 total, 7/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 10, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is an interesting little line that ascends an obvious dihedral in the middle of the crag. It goes through some different rock bands of varying quality...and that may be why it wasn't climbed before today.

There are a couple ways to start on the friable volcanic band low down. Both ways utilize a nice pocket 8 feet up. Wiggle left and then right into the dihedral. Continue through some awkward features on both sides of the dihedral. About mid-height, there are some holds on the arete to the left. Beware of a hollow block left of the arete. Figure out a way up the arete. You can go up the arete or do a few loose jams out left. Stem the dihedral utlizing some fragile holds out right. Finish the dihedral more on the left.

It's probably best to belay away from the base of the rock for now. After a decent first pass of cleaning, the interesting moves separated by good rests make it worth a go, though this will shed for a bit.

Location

This is between Misty and Rancid and ascends a slightly less-than-vertical dihedral.

Protection

Currently, it's not clear this warrants fixed hardware, given the lowest band has really questionable rock for bolts. Maybe a very long stick clip and 1st bolt in solid rock 15 feet up or so might work...or a high 1st bolt with a long chain, ugh.

The toprope anchor can use a #0.1, #0.2, #1 Camalot, blue & yellow Alien, and a medium wire. Various slings up to 6' are useful. It's probably 4th class to get to set up an anchor, which is easier from the north.

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