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Spiderman
5.11c,
Trad, 140 ft (42 m),
Avg: 2.6 from 5
votes
FA: Bill Price and Craig Hanna (1978)
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> N Sentinel Creek Area
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit
climbingyosemite.com/ and
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The nice crack system just to the left of Vanishing Point. Follow the same approach to reach the base.
The climb shares the same first 15ft of scrambling as Vanishing Point. Below the roof, walk to the left end of the ledge and make a dicey mantel onto a shelf which is protected by an old pin. Walk further left past a bush to reach a splitter finger crack. Jam on up to the next overlap, then undercling out right. Pull through a cruxy sequence on face holds and sidepulls to gain the next crack system above, then climb easier terrain to the top.
The rap anchor is off a tree, and is shared with Vanishing Point.
Protection
This is a difficult lead that requires twin ropes and several long runners to reduce rope drag. Bring a good selection of small wires and micro cams, some extra .5"-.75" cams, and a couple bigger cams (3-4.5") for the undercling traverse.
It can also be toproped with two ropes, after leading Vanishing Point.
![Upper part of Spiderman next to the ropes (the crack on the right is the upper part of Vanishing Point)]()
[Hide Photo] Upper part of Spiderman next to the ropes (the crack on the right is the upper part of Vanishing Point)
![Climb the thin crack on the left to the roof, traverse right to the direct finish]()
[Hide Photo] Climb the thin crack on the left to the roof, traverse right to the direct finish
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San Francisco, CA
Double ropes needed to lead this due to the traversing nature of the route.
The bolt in the Ried guide near the 11c face crux is missing. This would make the fall on lead quite hairy as the moves are unprotectable.
If that bolt was there this would be a super classic valley hard moderate test piece.
More detailed beta to help get people on this thing:
---------------------------------------------------------
Route starts in same place as Vanishing point. 5.8-5.9
Walk left past under roof 1 (Vanishing Point buisness start), then protect and mantle on ledge. 10b/c
No hands traverse left across ledge, past tree to amazing finger crack 9+/10- R
Fire up the the finger crack that is on par with Mr. Natural. 10d
Shake and traverse under the monster roof 10c
Breath, then fire the ~6 moves of desperate face with no bolt, use redundant pieces on lead before going pulling onto the face. 11c R
Karate chop your way up 30-40' of IC-esque 5.9/10a splitter hands and clip that tat and rings on the old tree Aug 3, 2015