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Routes in Mexican Pillar

Mexican Mija S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mijo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nieta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nieto S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Clay Frisbie , Tom Hancock 2012
Page Views: 289 total · 5/month
Shared By: Mike W. on Oct 10, 2013
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

Stem and face climb the arĂȘte/chimney on the North side of the pillar. Shares second and third bolt with Mijo but doesn't join until the shared anchors.

Protection

3 bolts, fixed anchors

Photos

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LovePas
 
LovePas  
 
So I did this route without stemming/using the opposing wall. I just used the arĂȘte and face do mexican pillar. Felt the climb was a lot harder than 5.9+. Reread guide book and it says that opposing wall/stemming is on. So question is...does anyone know what the grade would be if you climbed this route direct?

Beta spoiler: because if you stay off the opposing wall and transition up from the starting ledge to an undercling...the route goes and it's a sweet move. I thought 10+. Sep 1, 2014
D V
Long Island City, NY
 
D V   Long Island City, NY
 
Without stemming/using the wall it felt a bit harder than Mijo. Apr 10, 2016
RandyR  
Looking at this as someone who learned on granite, I thought mija was 5.9 without using the other wall. Mijo was still much harder for me. Who knows though, my second couldn't do it without stemming across. Oct 27, 2016
Kyle Harding
Oak Creek, WI
  5.9
Kyle Harding   Oak Creek, WI
  5.9
I stemmed for the first two bolts and then pulled out onto the face. Fun! Felt around 5.9. Mar 18, 2018

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