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Routes in Mexican Pillar

Mexican Mija S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mijo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nieta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nieto S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Clay Frisbie , Tom Hancock 2012
Page Views: 231 total, 5/month
Shared By: Mike W. on Oct 10, 2013
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

Stem and face climb the arĂȘte/chimney on the North side of the pillar. Shares second and third bolt with Mijo but doesn't join until the shared anchors.

Protection

3 bolts, fixed anchors

Photos

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RandyR  
Looking at this as someone who learned on granite, I thought mija was 5.9 without using the other wall. Mijo was still much harder for me. Who knows though, my second couldn't do it without stemming across. Oct 27, 2016
D V
Long Island City, NY
 
D V   Long Island City, NY
 
Without stemming/using the wall it felt a bit harder than Mijo. Apr 10, 2016
AP
 
AP  
 
So I did this route without stemming/using the opposing wall. I just used the arĂȘte and face do mexican pillar. Felt the climb was a lot harder than 5.9+. Reread guide book and it says that opposing wall/stemming is on. So question is...does anyone know what the grade would be if you climbed this route direct?

Beta spoiler: because if you stay off the opposing wall and transition up from the starting ledge to an undercling...the route goes and it's a sweet move. I thought 10+. Sep 1, 2014