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Questa Flatiron Original Route
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Questa Flatiron
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Questa Flatiron Original Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tell Your Feet Heads Up T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jason Halladay, Hagen Telg. May 2013 |
| Page Views: | 1,471 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Oct 8, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting
Details
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.
Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554
Description
A fun and well-protected two pitch route was the first route we climbed up the formation. The first pitch involves a minimal amount of face climbing to some pretty vegetated cracks to a nice belay stance below the clean upper face. The second pitch climbs the face with some friction climbing to a wide crack/trough eventually ending on an awesome exposed blunt arête finishing on fantastic chickenheads to the summit.
Pitch 1 (5.9): Start up to the right in the trough to a good stance at a small dike and clip a bolt. Pull onto the face and make face moves past a small bush or two and another bolt before reaching a good vertical crack. Climb the crack to a small roof. Pull the roof to good belay stance at a small tree in a bit of a chimney. Sling the tree and get nice .75 camalot placements near each foot for the belay or load up the nice crack to your right with #1 and #2 camalots for a bomber but less comfy stance. 70 feet.
Pitch 2 (5.10-): Follow the nice crack/flake out right (good gear) to a bolt. Move right on a tiny ledge for your feet until it's possible to pull up and onto a sloping ledge and a good stance to clip another bolt. Move up right clipping a couple more bolts of friction face climbing (crux) to reach the bottom of the wide crack/trough. Use a #4 camalot to protect the climbing in this wide crack and eventually reach the right edge of the flatiron and a cool, round hueco. This is where No Questa About It's third pitch moves right to exit the arête. Move up, clip a bolt and make airy moves on the arête before reaching some amazing chickenheads to the summit. 140 feet.
Pitch 1 (5.9): Start up to the right in the trough to a good stance at a small dike and clip a bolt. Pull onto the face and make face moves past a small bush or two and another bolt before reaching a good vertical crack. Climb the crack to a small roof. Pull the roof to good belay stance at a small tree in a bit of a chimney. Sling the tree and get nice .75 camalot placements near each foot for the belay or load up the nice crack to your right with #1 and #2 camalots for a bomber but less comfy stance. 70 feet.
Pitch 2 (5.10-): Follow the nice crack/flake out right (good gear) to a bolt. Move right on a tiny ledge for your feet until it's possible to pull up and onto a sloping ledge and a good stance to clip another bolt. Move up right clipping a couple more bolts of friction face climbing (crux) to reach the bottom of the wide crack/trough. Use a #4 camalot to protect the climbing in this wide crack and eventually reach the right edge of the flatiron and a cool, round hueco. This is where No Questa About It's third pitch moves right to exit the arête. Move up, clip a bolt and make airy moves on the arête before reaching some amazing chickenheads to the summit. 140 feet.
![Topo for the Questa Flatiron. The [[108377118]] goes right into the wide crack after the 5.10- face climbing on the second pitch.](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/108377140_smallMed_1494279666.jpg?cache=1701318238)
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