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Routes in Mount Waddington (4,019m)

Bravo Glacier T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3 M3+
Kiwi Route 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3 M3+
McNerthney Pillar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b AI3
Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 2400 ft, 20 pitches, Grade V
FA: Dan and Pat McNerthney, 1986
Page Views: 740 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ben Kunz on Oct 8, 2013
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

A proud line on the North Face of Mt Waddington. The route climbs over the bergshrund onto the first of three pillars. Each pillar or buttress is climbed more or less near its crest. The top of the third pillar meets snow and ice to pass through (almost magically) the large, overhanging seracs bands of the Angel Glacier above.

Location

Starts from the Waddington/Combatant Col. The Flavelle-Lane ice line is immediately climber's right of the McNerthney Pillar.

Protection

Medium rack, a few pitons advisable.

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