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Routes in Little Horse Mesa

A-Frame, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Arrowhead, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bad Moon Rising T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bat Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Birthday Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bush Doctor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bush Pilot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Carpa Manana T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crack From Hell, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack Head T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Crazy Cams T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dog Day T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Double D Left T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
DoubleD Right T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Driven to Climbs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Duke in a Bucket T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endless Summer T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Get Your Mojo Running T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gift of Aliens T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Roof Left T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Roof Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jam Your Blues Away T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lackawanna T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
March Madness T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Miami Vice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Motengator T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Optimator, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Oral Sex in the Whitehouse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pete's Downclimb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pocket Rocket, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Primodelic T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Raised by Wolves T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Resurrection Link Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right on Raton T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
S&M Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Salt Mother T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sangre Verde S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Saphire Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soma Holiday T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Son of Motengator T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spoticus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet and Sour T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Taos Lightning T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type O T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Up Your Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wounded Knee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yo Mamma T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Casey and Hillary Eales
Page Views: 636 total · 11/month
Shared By: CaseyE Eales on Oct 7, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This climb has a lot of variety for a Sugarite Climb. Chimneys, dihedrals, arets, slabs, overhangs, flares and fingers can all be found on it. It is similar in difficulty to S&M, and I think similar in quality as well. You be the judge.
Start in the chimney. Climb the chimney liberally using cracks on ether side until you get to the interesting cracks starting half way up the slab. Follow the cracks right up the middle of the slab which brings you directly under the main crack. The crux is the first half of this crack because it is slightly overhanging and flaring, than eases a bit for the second half.

Location

We approached this climb from the top(cairn at top of climb) but it can be approached from the bottom if you want. 150' down the wall from the S&M Crack. There is an obvious chimney with a red slab and interesting spiderweb cracks on it at the bottom.

Protection

Bring some large gear and long slings to make the top anchor which is pretty easy to make.
This climb uses a lot of .5-2" cams and hexes.

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