Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Casey and Hillary Eales
Page Views: 693 total · 10/month
Shared By: CaseyE Eales on Oct 7, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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This climb has a lot of variety for a Sugarite Climb. Chimneys, dihedrals, arets, slabs, overhangs, flares and fingers can all be found on it. It is similar in difficulty to S&M, and I think similar in quality as well. You be the judge.
Start in the chimney. Climb the chimney liberally using cracks on ether side until you get to the interesting cracks starting half way up the slab. Follow the cracks right up the middle of the slab which brings you directly under the main crack. The crux is the first half of this crack because it is slightly overhanging and flaring, than eases a bit for the second half.


We approached this climb from the top(cairn at top of climb) but it can be approached from the bottom if you want. 150' down the wall from the S&M Crack. There is an obvious chimney with a red slab and interesting spiderweb cracks on it at the bottom.


Bring some large gear and long slings to make the top anchor which is pretty easy to make.
This climb uses a lot of .5-2" cams and hexes.