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Routes in The Gap

Dihedral to Dike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pony Express T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: EFR and BK first pitch 1989 DDC and EEW 1990 2nd and 3rd pitches
Page Views: 794 total, 16/month
Shared By: Angel Mangual on Oct 7, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

This is a three pitch route with an optional fourth pitch to the top of the dome.

1st pitch: Starts at the left facing dihedral. Continue the crack till it ends and move up toward Chicken heads. Belay from chicken heads.(5.8).

2nd pitch: Go right and follow the chicken head line. Go up easy slab towards a dike that faces an open book finger crack or (for me) right down facing dihedral. Belay from chicken heads(5.7).

3rd pitch: Short pitch that goes up the Open book finger crack. (you will be left wanting more from this pitch). You will come up the crack to chickenheads look left to a chickenhead and a bolt anchor to belay from (5.9). If you want to continue up to the additional fourth pitch that will take you to the top of the dome, you will ignore the anchors and keep going up the chicken heads towards a crack. Belay from here.

(Optional) 4th Pitch: Follow the crack passing a single bolt. Continue up towards a dike. Belay from the sling anchors on top of the dome (5.9).

Location

You will need a double rope to rappel off the doom. 4 rappels.

Protection

Single rack from micros to 4 BD, nuts, and slings.

Photos

Fun route, excellent summit! Sunny.
You will not need double ropes to rap off the doom!
1 70m rope, single .4-3 Camalot, big nutz
pitch1: 200', 'dicey slab move' is 5.7, protected by a good slung chickenhead.
belay at comfy scoop with big water dish, takes .4, .5 Camalot and a chickenhead
P2: 200', go past open book corner, chickenheads and 2-3 Camalot.
P3: 150', climb past the rappel anchor (bolt, chickenhead), belay below summit block
Boulder the summit block, no anchor on top, downclimb.
Rappel: downclimb to 1st anchor, rap then walk/downclimb to 2nd anchor above open book corner. Two more 35m raps down Pony Express, watch the ends, tie knots! Swing left on the last rap to touch down. Jan 18, 2017
Ben Lock
Cedar City, UT
  5.9
Ben Lock   Cedar City, UT
  5.9
Don't go up the finger crack on third pitch, the face is superb and protects well w a .75. Mar 21, 2014
Mike Diesen
Sierra Vista, AZ
Mike Diesen   Sierra Vista, AZ
Great route! First pitch dihedral is the obvious left face corner on the right side of the Gap wall. After about 40 feet it starts angling left ending at the obvious dike (hence the route's name). Alternatively, where it angles left, you can pull over it onto the right face and follow the chickenheads up and left to the dike. This does have a dicey slab move. Pitch 2 follows the dike up and right around the corner. You will then see an obvious 20 foot head wall on the left. There are several options here to get over this head wall but the open book on the left just beckons to be climbed. As Angel says, you will wish this was 3 times higher. Where the crack ends on pitch 4 there is a bolt. Clip the bolt then make a slightly run-out move to get into the crack above. I protected the crack with a couple of micro cams. A couple crimpy face moves then grab the big heads and cruise to the top. We were able to get down with a 70 meter rope by swinging back and forth to different anchors and doing some down climbing. 2 ropes would have been preferred but a 70 will get you down with great care and a lot of attention. Oct 7, 2013