Dihedral to Dike
Avg: 2.7 from 7 votes
Routes in The Gap
|Dihedral to Dike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Pony Express T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|FA:||EFR and BK first pitch 1989 DDC and EEW 1990 2nd and 3rd pitches|
|Page Views:||794 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Angel Mangual on Oct 7, 2013|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThis is a three pitch route with an optional fourth pitch to the top of the dome.
1st pitch: Starts at the left facing dihedral. Continue the crack till it ends and move up toward Chicken heads. Belay from chicken heads.(5.8).
2nd pitch: Go right and follow the chicken head line. Go up easy slab towards a dike that faces an open book finger crack or (for me) right down facing dihedral. Belay from chicken heads(5.7).
3rd pitch: Short pitch that goes up the Open book finger crack. (you will be left wanting more from this pitch). You will come up the crack to chickenheads look left to a chickenhead and a bolt anchor to belay from (5.9). If you want to continue up to the additional fourth pitch that will take you to the top of the dome, you will ignore the anchors and keep going up the chicken heads towards a crack. Belay from here.
(Optional) 4th Pitch: Follow the crack passing a single bolt. Continue up towards a dike. Belay from the sling anchors on top of the dome (5.9).