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Routes in Ranger Station Rock 2

Da Block V4 6B
Road Kill V8 7B
Side Show V4+ 6B+
Slab Problem V1 5
Tourist Trap V0+ 4+
Tourist Treat V0 4
Trailside Traverse V-easy 3
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Ryan Hunt
Page Views: 122 total · 2/month
Shared By: monotrope on Oct 6, 2013
Admins: Colin Parker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Remember to fill out a wilderness permit, even if climbing for the day! Details

Description

This line follows an arete to the right of Slab Problem V1.
Sit start just to the right of the south side arete on sharp crimpers. Move left on side pulls and crimpers into a sloper dish on the arete for the left hand and a blank hold for the right. Throw a left heel hook around the corner and squeeze the rock to make a series of left hand compression bumps all the way up to a thin ledge. Top out on ledges slightly up and right.
This might be a reach problem, but alternative beta seems possible. The crux is probably making the last bump to the upper hold.

Location

South side of Ranger Station Rock #2 to the right Slab Problem (V1), and to the left of Tourist Treat (V0). Sit start on thin crimpers of the left and right hand.

Protection

Pads and spotter. I cleaned up most of the choss and grains, but there is still the possibility for bad rock.

Photos

monotrope  
 
A couple of the holds were pretty rotten before cleaning. Over the course of about 4 sessions I pulled off pretty much all the grain that was there and what's left are pretty good slopers. The only hold that might still be friable is the last bump ledge. If it breaks it will still go, but it will be a bit more difficult.
The three stars are for: the movement-- which flows really well, the line-- which is uncontrived, and my opinion-- it was pretty fun. I'm assuming that consensus will settle somewhere else, and that's cool. Oct 8, 2013
RTM
RTM  
Have not heard of anyone climbing this before. Sounds kinda rotten for 3 stars?! Oct 7, 2013
monotrope  
 
I'm tentatively posting this as a first ascent based on the amount of choss that I had to scrub off of the holds. After asking around it seems that this line has never been done, but I'm aware of the possibility that I'm wrong.
Also, the grade is just a suggestion based on a number of other routes in the area. This seems much harder to me than Blue Flame for instance, but not as hard as Byron's Roof. Take that for whatever it's worth... Oct 7, 2013

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