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Double Dynos

5.12c, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3 from 8 votes
FA: David Quinn
New Hampshire > Rumney > Very Nice Crag

Description

This route starts just right of Cozened Stone from the same ledge. This route may feel like 12b if you're tall or 12c if you are short.

Climb a short headwall on the right end of the starting ledge past an eye bolt to a sloping ledge, continue up a short, steep wall and slab following the line of eye bolts left of the corner. Climb up and left under the roof and clip the 2 bolts in the 10' roof. Unlock the "mean little boulder problem" moves out the roof, (crux)and onto the steep face above. Climb the "Rad face" on pristine, Waimea quality stone with cool moves to a final crux and the anchors.

Location

Right of Cozened Stone

Protection

Eye Bolts: 11 draws. ( protection bolts, 2 anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dave Quinn on Double D's. Northwest Passage, Rumney NH
[Hide Photo] Dave Quinn on Double D's. Northwest Passage, Rumney NH
different take on that
[Hide Photo] different take on that
Me on a Birthday send of this sweet and at times brutal climb...
[Hide Photo] Me on a Birthday send of this sweet and at times brutal climb...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

stow
5.12c
[Hide Comment] It's a hard one to grade as the bottom slab is moderate, the crux section is hard but only like 6 poppy hand movements and the top is picturesque but pretty straightforward. The crux is harder than anything on benchmark 12c's like Venus/Flying Monkeys but it's so short 12c is probably right. May 2, 2016