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Routes in The Very Nice Crag

'Lectra Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boar War S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Cozened Stone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Creature Feature T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double D's S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Final Frontier S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Forty Six and 2 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Friend Zone, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lateralus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lord's Prayer, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mixed up Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pretty Good Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pump it Up S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rippopotamus S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tintinabulation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Very Nice Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: David Quinn
Page Views: 513 total, 10/month
Shared By: David Quinn on Oct 5, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This route starts just right of Cozened Stone from the same ledge. This route may feel like 12b if you're tall or 12c if you are short.

Climb a short headwall on the right end of the starting ledge past an eye bolt to a sloping ledge, continue up a short, steep wall and slab following the line of eye bolts left of the corner. Climb up and left under the roof and clip the 2 bolts in the 10' roof. Unlock the "mean little boulder problem" moves out the roof, (crux)and onto the steep face above. Climb the "Rad face" on pristine, Waimea quality stone with cool moves to a final crux and the anchors.

Location

Right of Cozened Stone

Protection

Eye Bolts: 11 draws. ( protection bolts, 2 anchor

Photos

stow
5.12c
stow  
5.12c
It's a hard one to grade as the bottom slab is moderate, the crux section is hard but only like 6 poppy hand movements and the top is picturesque but pretty straightforward. The crux is harder than anything on benchmark 12c's like Venus/Flying Monkeys but it's so short 12c is probably right. May 2, 2016
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
"Jay and I talked at length about the grade of the route. We both find it very hard 12c ish To me it is not cryptic at all... I'm awesome at cracking codes... I am much less awesome at being strong haha... Being really strong is the key to the roof but the upper half was all techy so I ate that up"
-LH
Posted with permission, this comment would have saved me from some shameful tries. Oct 7, 2015