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Routes in Front Boulder

Block Top V2 5+
Block Top Sit Start V5 6C
Cooker V1 5
Descent Slab V0 4
Hooker V3 6A
Looker V1 5
McMidgetson V2 5+
Slice V1 5
Slice Variation V6-7 7A+
Slobadon V5 6C
Stanfields aka Tommy The Cat V9 7C
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 141 total, 3/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Oct 5, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Arguably the best problem at McKenzie Pond.

Stand start matched on an obvious crimp flake at 6 feet. Move right hand to a small sidepull out right and then bump again to a small, but decent crimp rail above (these moves are the crux). Figure out a way to get your left hand on the crimp rail. Get a high foot and jump/deadpoint to the sloping, but good lip out right. Throw a heel on and wrestle over the top. Done!

A very aesthetic and pure line that climbs beautifully. Full value.

Location

Located to the right of Slobadon (and to the right of a tree that leans against the boulder).

Protection

Several pads are ideal

Photos

- No Photos -
Little history of this boulder problem:
Jim Belcer did he FA in 1993. He named it "Tommy the Cat". He worked on it originally in 1989, 90 and came back for the send in 93. May 15, 2017
eddysamson
  V9
eddysamson  
  V9
I've even heard of a 3rd name for this climb (though I've forgotten it). Does anyone know if this has a different name for each variation or something?

I know of 3 ways to do this:

1.) The right hand sidepull as per the description
2.) Dyno straight to the rail
3.) Go straight up to a left hand crimp/gaston turn your hips to face the wall and hit the rail

I use #3 and have tried the dyno a lot, I usually go too hard or too soft on the dyno and have never actually stuck it, the sweet spot is really hard to hit.

This is my current project and I am VERY close, I will post video of the very uncommon #3 beta when I get it. May 4, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Everything you could ever want in a boulder problem.

There is a v11-ish sit start that starts down and right of the flake on edges and moves left into the starting flake via some small holds. Oct 5, 2013