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Routes in Abominable Snowman

Belmont Brie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Child of Chaos T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Corruption is Contagious S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Creature Comforts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Creature of Habit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crystal Ship S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hill City Shootout: Bullets Not Blanks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Piranha Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Piranha Roof S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Seven Year Itch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Side Arm S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Too Easy for Hard Men S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mike Engle, Vern Phiney 1985 Ground Up
Page Views: 555 total, 11/month
Shared By: Justin Compton on Oct 4, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Climb up the middle of the NW face - This route was originally started by Mark Jacobs who gave up after several bolts declaring that it was too easy -- hence the name.

Location

North West Face of the the Abominable Snowman

Protection

9 bolts

Photos

Jimmy D
Rapid City
  5.9+
Jimmy D   Rapid City
  5.9+
If this is a 5.9 then Baba Cool is 5.8 ;) Sustained and technical, hats off to the FA team. Aug 5, 2015
Justin Compton
Lafayette, CO
 
Justin Compton   Lafayette, CO
 
Mike, It was nice meeting you there that day and I agree that this climb felt way harder than 5.9! Oct 10, 2013
Mike Engle
Pocatello, Idaho
Mike Engle   Pocatello, Idaho  
Having just repeated the route this September for the first time since I put up the FA in the 80's, I have to make a couple comments.

Mark Jacobs did indeed not want to finish the route but what happened is a very large crystal broke that he was standing on to drill the second bolt. He either hit the ground or came very close to the ground. Mark complained the route was a grungy and loose and didn't want to finish it.

I went up and finished the second bolt and the rest of the route. The route was done Needles style from stances and those were some of the hardest bolts I have ever drilled from natural stances, especially the 3rd bolt.

Mark was climbing much better than me and thus the tongue in cheek name.

In Sept, I did find the bottom 1/3 of the route a little "grungy and loose" but improved as I got higher up. I also found the route harder than every 5.10a at City of Rocks and Castle Rocks which is where I climb most of the time these days (though it's possible I was just not used to crystal pinching anymore ;-) ).

Cheers,
Mike Engle Oct 8, 2013