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Routes in Primal Wall Area

American Life S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Apollos Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Green Ranger T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SGT Baker T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southbound Pachyderm T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Things that Shouldn't be T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 205 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Aaron Stetzer 9/12
Page Views: 258 total, 5/month
Shared By: AStezer on Oct 4, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

P1:5.11- Start by doing some weird moves past two bolts to gain a little right trending 15ft runout ramp to the third bolt. Its easy but climb carefully. It gets cruxy getting past third, then is moderate past the next two bolts. After that place some small-medium cams in the right rising cracks. There is very cool rock throughout this section. Clip one more bolt then scamper up the 5.7 crystal slab to the chains. 95’ This pich starts out dirty but gets better and only worth 1 star. But it gets you to the second…

P2: 5.11- This thing is way cool. Rap or down climb behind the giant flake that is the top of the first pitch. Then start up the thin cracks with very cool side pulls and insecure feet in between good hand/finger jam rests (5.10). When you hit the grungy roof at about 55 feet extend your slings and make very exposed face moves out right and start clipping bolts. Getting past the second bolt is the bulgy thin crux. Continue on the killer crystal face (5.9) for a handful more bolts trending rightward till your on the beautiful ledge with the anchor. 115’ The crack climbing is quite verified in style yet pretty sustained in difficulty. Very fun. Will become a 4 stars route with some more traffic.

Getting down: With a 70m you just rap twice.Knot your ends. We never tried a 60m rope from the top anchor but it should be extremely close. Be very carefull.

Location

It starts ontop of a pile of boulders just left of the big nasty looking roofs, and 40' right of SGT Baker

Protection

A Standard rack to 2" and nuts, with doubles from .4-1" for the second pitch. Quick draws.

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