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Southbound Pachyderm
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 3
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SGT Baker T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Southbound Pachyderm T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Things that Shouldn't be T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 205 ft (62 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Aaron Stetzer 9/12 |
| Page Views: | 987 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | AStezer on Oct 4, 2013 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
P1:5.11- Start by doing some weird moves past two bolts to gain a little right trending 15ft runout ramp to the third bolt. Its easy but climb carefully. It gets cruxy getting past third, then is moderate past the next two bolts. After that place some small-medium cams in the right rising cracks. There is very cool rock throughout this section. Clip one more bolt then scamper up the 5.7 crystal slab to the chains. 95 This pich starts out dirty but gets better and only worth 1 star. But it gets you to the second
P2: 5.11- This thing is way cool. Rap or down climb behind the giant flake that is the top of the first pitch. Then start up the thin cracks with very cool side pulls and insecure feet in between good hand/finger jam rests (5.10). When you hit the grungy roof at about 55 feet extend your slings and make very exposed face moves out right and start clipping bolts. Getting past the second bolt is the bulgy thin crux. Continue on the killer crystal face (5.9) for a handful more bolts trending rightward till your on the beautiful ledge with the anchor. 115 The crack climbing is quite verified in style yet pretty sustained in difficulty. Very fun. Will become a 4 stars route with some more traffic.
Getting down: With a 70m you just rap twice.Knot your ends. We never tried a 60m rope from the top anchor but it should be extremely close. Be very carefull.
P2: 5.11- This thing is way cool. Rap or down climb behind the giant flake that is the top of the first pitch. Then start up the thin cracks with very cool side pulls and insecure feet in between good hand/finger jam rests (5.10). When you hit the grungy roof at about 55 feet extend your slings and make very exposed face moves out right and start clipping bolts. Getting past the second bolt is the bulgy thin crux. Continue on the killer crystal face (5.9) for a handful more bolts trending rightward till your on the beautiful ledge with the anchor. 115 The crack climbing is quite verified in style yet pretty sustained in difficulty. Very fun. Will become a 4 stars route with some more traffic.
Getting down: With a 70m you just rap twice.Knot your ends. We never tried a 60m rope from the top anchor but it should be extremely close. Be very carefull.
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