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Malarious

5.11a, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 15 votes
FA: Lewis Rogers
Missouri > WM: Cliff Drive > Overhang

Description

After clipping the anchor(s) of "Chomping the Bit" go up and right onto sharp holds past one bolt up to the anchors of Malaria.

A kneebar is possible once you step onto the final jug of chomping the bit. Go past one bolt followed by crimpers then continue to the anchors. Choose one of two final holds, one directly below the anchor which requires an awkward body position to clip on, or go up and left of the anchors onto a jug.

The route was added in winter of 2012-13 by adding a single bolt between the anchors of Chomping the Bit and Malaria. Best use of a single bolt ever.

Location

Just above Chomping the Bit

Protection

Bring four quickdraws. Anchors of chomping the bit serve as fixed draw.