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Routes in Crater Crag of North Quarry

Crater Cat TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Debhedral TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Doug's Variation T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Fragile X TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gig, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Golden Arete S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Misty S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mountain Lion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rancid S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sending Choss TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: Deb Thompson, LP
Page Views: 359 total, 7/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 3, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a TR line that has some interesting moves despite some of the fragile blocks along the way. It might warrant fixed gear, it might not. Don't climb this route unless you can avoid pulling on loose blocks.

Start to the left of Rancid in a short dihedral. The opening moves are good and solvable in 2 ways. Watch out for the hollow block/flake up and right (Fragile X #1)...it might only hold for light climbers like Deb. Move through easy terrain to the tiny roof. Don't go out left, that jug in the corner shifts (Fragile X #2). Pull the roof with a high step right and then high step left (crux). Watch out for the trapezoidal block (Fragile X #3). Move up and right, avoiding the loose block (Fragile X #4). Finish up and left. Be careful up there, stuff on the left isn't necessarily solid.

Walk off.

Note, we got probably more than a hundred pounds of loose rock off this...so far.

Update: Dave got the 1st X'ed block off with a crowbar. There was another big block up and left at the finish that came out...fortunately without seriously injuring anyone.

Location

This is to the left of Rancid.

Protection

We used the metal pipe, slung boulder, and #12 BD wire/orange Alien to make a slingshot toprope system. Long slings (12') are useful.

Photos

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