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Routes in Stained Glass/Flyboy Area

Almost V6 7A PG13
Blood Spud V10 7C+
East Side Story V3 6A
Fall Guy, The V9 7C PG13
Five and Dime V1 5
Five and Dime Left V0 4
Five and Dime Left Sit Start V1 5
Five and Dime Right V0 4
Flyboy V6 7A
Flyboy Arete V5 6C
Flyboy SDS V8- 7B
Haroun & the Sea of Stories V11+ 8A
Stained Glass V10 7C+
Unnamed V3 V3 6A
Type: Boulder, 30 ft
FA: Kevin Daniels
Page Views: 2,634 total · 48/month
Shared By: AJ on Oct 3, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start by leaning off an adjacent boulder, then follow a line of mostly pretty good holds up and right to a long reach way off the deck. Technically it's a notch easier than Jedi Mind Tricks but instead of the crux being the first move, it's the last.

Great rock, cool moves and a distinct line: total classic.

Location

Just above the Flyboy boulder.

Protection

none

Photos

Raddam6
Salt Lake
Raddam6   Salt Lake
I tried this climb today and it felt full V3. I wasn't able to find any "good edges" to go up the big knob jug. Kinda small greasy holds but a good foot. Must do highball.

Edit: In the past I wrote that it felt hard and may have broken since the FA. Nov 24, 2014
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
 
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
 
I would agree with ebanich. I can't confirm that any holds broke since I climbed it for the first time only last week but it felt a lot harder than Jedi Mind Tricks (somewhat burly traverse to get to the good right hand before the long move) Jan 21, 2015
Mike Brady
Van Diesel, OR
  V3 R
Mike Brady   Van Diesel, OR
  V3 R
No holds have broken. Crumbled?....yes. The traversed can be a bit temperature dependent, but it has been "burly" since the FA. Oct 19, 2015
TyStar
  V3
TyStar  
  V3
Do the first move from the ground for extra full value. Perfect rock Mar 14, 2017

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