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Routes in The Diamond

Auntie M T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Festoon T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hatari T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Psycho Bitch S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ruby Shoes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Secret Lover T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tik Tok T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toto T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Toto to the Pinnacle link up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
True Grit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trusting Aborigines S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport
FA: Skine Boyton, Evan Phillips (2000)
Page Views: 523 total · 8/month
Shared By: Laine Parish on Oct 2, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description

The route is on an obvious slab located up the semi-sketchy scree field to the left of most of the routes on The Diamond. When I climbed it, the route was wet right up the bolt line. The crux is where the slab gets steep. I thought that it requires a 5.10a/b move to attain the horizontal crack (with piton) where there are some fun pulls on some flakes/jugs to reach the one bolt anchor. Might be scary for the beginning 5.8/9 leader.

Protection

There are 5-6 bolts and 1 piton in the crack. There is a scary traverse over the water if you stay to the left of the bolts on the slab and the crux move is above bolt on the steep stuff. Lower off of the 1 bolt anchor or walk-off. Wear a helmet. The climb was harder for the follower as I kicked off the small nubs for feet at the crux. Going left looked easier but was too wet. I can't imagine it being dry any time of the year to be honest.

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