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Routes in Icehouse Canyon

Hobo Route, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Hoop Dreams T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Irregular Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Painslut T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Submarine Dog T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Westside Connection T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Super badass guy that sounds like Paco
Page Views: 654 total · 12/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on Oct 2, 2013
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The first pitch is the good part. A 5.7 or whatever crack up to some lower angle crap to a super loose ledge with really big sharp pointy blocks of imminent peril, followed by more crack up and then a super cool airy traverse left. Super fun when yer alone, dawg! I don't remember the pitch length. Who cares, nobody's ever gonna climb it again.

Pitch 2 starts off loose, then there's a cool fin thing that goes at like 5.8 or whatever, probably 5.1 for all you high speed interthugz. Goes under a big tree (good hauling here if solo), then up some truly awful rock. Bad even for the San Gabes. Then finishes after some more neat moves in a little alcove thingy with a tree. Class 4 to the top.

Hike east following game trails down the easy gully about 400ft east of topout. Check yer map. You'll go straight down the gully to the wilderness boundary, and that big boulder and sign.

Note that this route was done on lead solo with a modded Grigri.

Location

This route starts on the large ledge directly to the left of the final rappel down Sheep Canyon's headwall. This is the furthest you can hike up the canyon (some class 4) without breaking out the rope for any moves more than like 15ft off the deck.

Look up at the right side of the headwall and you should see the Sheep Canyon Spire. The route will be on your left going up the obvious crack system on the left of a nice sorta-blank face.

Protection

-70m rope
-Doubles from C4 #.5 - #4, one #5
-Tiny cams (X4's and WC Zeroes)
-Lots of slings

Photos

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