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Castle Rocks Gardening Club

5.11c, Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.2 from 5 votes
FA: Adam Floyd, Earl Mcalister, Caitlin MacMurtrie
Idaho > S Idaho > Castle Rocks > E Sector > Comp Rock > Comp Rock - E Face
Warning Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

First Pitch: Right facing dihedral with thin gear crux and one bolt down low. 11a/b

Second Pitch: (The goods) A steep "stellar" pitch on great rock with good laybacking and jamming.

You can make it to the ground from the second pitch anchor with one 70M rope. Build an anchor for pitch 2, a #3 camalot can help here.

It is feasible to take the route to the top with a pitch of difficult to protect chossy OW (5.10ish), and a 5.4 unprotected sandy slab.

Location

This Route is on the due East face of the Comp Wall, 60 feet left of Trigger. So rather than taking the right to hike up to Handy and Mantle Dynamics, turn left for 60 feet and look for a right dihedral/pillar.
See Topo photo for more details.

Protection

Rack with bigger piece for pitch 1 (#4 camalot) and small gear for crux, small nuts key.
Pitch two three bolts to 2 .75 camalots, and one #2 to keep it a tiny bit spicy.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo of Route
[Hide Photo] Topo of Route
Adam Growing Cracks. Pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Adam Growing Cracks. Pitch 1.
Second Pitch looking up.
[Hide Photo] Second Pitch looking up.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Benjamin Eaton
Sandy, UT
[Hide Comment] Very cool. Can't wait to check it out. When did you guys establish this one? Fairly recently? Oct 3, 2013
JF1
Idaho
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Added this route this summer Nov 27, 2013