Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Alcove / BNF Area

Face of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
For Whom The Bell Tolls S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
No Talent Ass Clown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Postmodernism S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spicy Tuna Roll S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Chris Grijalva
Page Views: 431 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony Brengosz on Oct 1, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

I believe that this is the hardest route at the schoolroom, and it is also one of the best. Unfortunately it doesn't get much traffic, so be sure to bring a brush.

Follow the crack through gradually more difficult moves as the wall steepens, until you're faced with a difficult move to a high undercling. Pull a few hard moves here, then keep it together on the totally botch-able slab moves until you reach the chains out right.

Location

On the big overhung wall in the alcove, in between Spicy Tuna Roll, and Postmodernism.

Protection

8 Bolts + chains

Photos

- No Photos -
Hey Tony, Good Job on your send ( not positive, but it may be the 2nd ascent ). Nice to see some of the harder routes on School Room getting some attention and ascents. Cheers !! Oct 5, 2013
I haven't sent it yet, but I think it would be the 2nd ascent. I've got draws on it, and gave it a pretty good scrub, for anyone that wants to take a crack at it. There's tons of great climbs up there, more folks need to get on them! Oct 5, 2013
Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT
  5.13a
Colby Wayment   Ogden, UT
  5.13a
Probably not the hardest route at Schoolroom, but certainly a contender for the best. Love the "totally botch-able slab"description. Definitely done that a time or two. Oct 6, 2013
What do you think is the hardest up there? Also, is there really a 12a sequence I missed on this? Oct 8, 2013
Colby Wayment
Ogden, UT
  5.13a
Colby Wayment   Ogden, UT
  5.13a
12a thing was a joke, I guess, based on all your recent ratings like Suicide Rap, which crack me up, btw.

I guess the hardest depends on your style. Eric, it seemed, found this a bit more difficult than all the other 13s he put down, but he can speak for himself. For me this is even easier than Suicide Rap. I've always been under the impression that Rule of Three and I Got Stripes were the most difficult. I Got Stripes isn't too bad bad until you get to the final pinch move before the chains. I haven't, in a long time, been on the Rule of Three, so don't really know. Chris project at the basement, when sent, should be the hardest unless Curt's optimistic boulder problem goes down at the Night School Wall.

Regardless, I'm glad your psyched on it. As far as I know, if you put it down it would be the 2nd ascent. I pitched off the final crimp a couple of times going for the horizontal crack/jug just before the chains and never did return to put it down after all the effort I spent trying to get to that point.

I do think this is the coolest route on Schoolroom. Good on ya! I'm glad you're up there cleaning the cobwebs off of these routes. Oct 10, 2013

More About For Whom The Bell Tolls

Printer-Friendly