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Pole Dancing

5.7, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 253 votes
FA: unknown
N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Pilot Mountain > 08. Amphitheater

Description

Start up the clean, prominent dihedral for a few feet. Then follow bolts up and right to the arete. Climb the arete until its possible to step left and climb up the face just over a roof. Finish at bolted rings. (These are out of sight around to the right)

Location

Start at the bottom of the prominent dihedral just right of SHRIMPS. Same start as SINGLE HANDED SAILOR.

Protection

7 bolts and bolted anchors with rings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Leading Pole Dancing
[Hide Photo] Leading Pole Dancing
First 3-4 bolts
[Hide Photo] First 3-4 bolts
Alex rapping down from this route!
[Hide Photo] Alex rapping down from this route!
Rounding the "pole" (arete) below the roof, a fun move with good exposure.
[Hide Photo] Rounding the "pole" (arete) below the roof, a fun move with good exposure.
Thought-provoking and diverse for a seven.
[Hide Photo] Thought-provoking and diverse for a seven.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
[Hide Comment] Finally did this climb yesterday. It is really relaxed and fun for the grade. Surprising amount of bolts for NC standards, with some good exposure near the top as you head around and over the roof.

The anchor is in an unintuitive spot. Would really like to see it relocated to the left, at the end of the corner. This line feels more natural on lead, but would make top-roping even more difficult than it already is from the current anchors. Sep 15, 2015
physnchips
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Hard to find the anchor. After a good 10 minutes of looking I just anchored to the 5.11 nearby, but then you are finishing in 5.11 territory instead of 5.7 and may not be doable for you or your party. Feb 1, 2016
Mitch Redford
[Hide Comment] Fun route with good exposure. Be careful of a few lose flakes around the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Had trouble finding the anchors when I reached the top, ended up rapping of the pine tree at the top. Walked up to the top and found the anchors on climbers right of the big block, interesting placement. I enjoyed the amount of bolts. Dec 15, 2016
mtbmt -
 
[Hide Comment] Pretty fun climb, totally see where the route gets its name as you wrap your leg around the corner. Agree with Benandstuff, definitely more natural lead than a top-rope. I did both and felt more in control on the lead. Once around you've traversed across to the front face and upon the first ledge around the corner rock, some of the larger black rocks above are loose --use caution there, they're about 6 feet right of the bolt. From that same bolt, head straight up and the anchors are directly above. Jul 28, 2018
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
 
[Hide Comment] Each time I do this route, I like it a little less. So much choss. And IS that one bolt in a detached piece of rock? Seems to make a slightly sandy, less than reassuring noise when I thump the rock with my palm. Best not to test it. Jun 27, 2020
Nathaniel Ward
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I actually do enjoy the climbing on this route, particularly the exposed bit up high where you pull around the roof, but I 100% agree with Scott G’s comment above: the 3rd or 4th bolt is in a piece of rock that is not completely attached. Maybe it’s drilled deep enough to be safe? Maybe not. Aug 7, 2020
Will Payne
 
[Hide Comment] There's a block on the right face below the 1st bolt that moves when you pull on it but one of the flakes just above the 2nd bolt is pitifully loose. It may be worth trundling the flake at this point. Nov 26, 2020