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Routes in The Eden Wall

East of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fish & Whistle S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Forbidden Fruit S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Garden Of Eden T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tree of Knowledge S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
West of Eden T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Wilford in the mid '70s
Page Views: 477 total, 9/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Oct 1, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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The guidebook gives this one an "R" rating, but I think it would be a reasonable lead if you are a 5.10 leader. Follow the crack system just right of the bolts on Garden Of Eden. The lower section protects well, but you will rely on a single piece to protect a groundfall or a big whipper. The gear near the top is tricky and sparse. There is a marginal cam around a purple C3 that protects the moves to the anchors.


This ascends the crack system on the face to the left of East of Eden.


Gear to #2 with emphasis on thin to mid-sized gear....

It can be TR'ed with a 70m rope.


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Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
OK, maybe this one does deserve the "R" rating. If you blow the crux move at the top and that purple C3 blows, you are going for a big ride! Oct 6, 2013