Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Jim Graham and Tony Grinko, 1985
Page Views: 1,784 total · 28/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Oct 1, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Fish & Whistle climbs the dramatic arete to the left of East of Eden. There is some history to this route (see comments below), but on closer inspection it is unclear if the route was ever bolted and chopped.

As it stands now, it is a fully bolt protected line and is one of the best of the grade in the Poudre. The crux comes at the 2nd bolt and continues up the arete with continuous climbing in the 5.10 range. There are some gently committing moves between bolts, but all the bolts are well positioned to protect the harder climbing.

Per Jim Graham: "I did the FA onsight in 1985 and placed one bolt on lead, just before the crux."

Location

Climb the arete just left of East of Eden.

Protection

This is now fully bolt protected (11-12 bolts).

Photos

Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.11a
Bolts and anchor replaced today. Several small cams from 00 to #2 TCUs and a medium stopper needed. The crux is moving left and up from the second bolt. Several TCU placements follow. Save the 00 for the last placement (in a horizontal) before the third bolt. Aug 17, 2015
Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
Awesome, Ken and DeDe!
Thanks for updating this killer route. Aug 17, 2015
eric owen
Estes Park, Colorado
eric owen   Estes Park, Colorado
I was very unpleased to see that bolts were added to this line. Can you explain putting in bolts on an existing line? Oct 1, 2015
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.11a
This line was supposedly bolted years ago and then chopped. It hasn't been led since then. Oct 1, 2015
eric owen
Estes Park, Colorado
eric owen   Estes Park, Colorado
Was it orginally bolted by the FA? I would have liked it to remain a 10c X route/headpoint route. Seems like a waste of material and unnecessary damage to the rock, more so since it is a easy TR once you lead the corner route. Since it was chopped once before, someone must have had a reason to chop it, so why rebolt it? Has this reason of chopping it before, been resolved? To me, this does not seems much different than adding bolts to existing routes at Duncan's Ridge. Oct 2, 2015
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.11a
This route was bolted by the FA party (an unknown person from the Midwest). To the best of my knowledge, it has never been headpointed and is only rarely top-roped. I did talk to several of the usual bolt chopping suspects, and none of them had any idea why the route had been chopped.

The Poudre Canyon is completely different from Duncan's and the rest of the Horsetooth bouldering areas. The Poudre has a bolting ethic - most of the climbs are bolted. Duncan's/Horsetooth has a no bolt ethic with no bolted routes until the recent episode. They are two completely different areas with totally different ethics. You are comparing apples and oranges. Oct 3, 2015
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.11a
Being pro-bolting of routes that had been climbed hundreds or thousands of times at Duncan's without bolts while being anti-bolting when it comes to a route that has never been led without bolts up the Poudre is blatant hipocracy. Obviously you are just trolling. Consequently I will not respond to any further comments of yours. Oct 3, 2015
heppnerd
  5.11a
heppnerd  
  5.11a
Super fun route. All the gear placements looked marginal, so I skipped them and went from the 2nd to 3rd bolt with nothing. That said, if you can pull the crux at the 2nd bolt, getting to the 3rd should be easy, but if you fall, you could deck. IMO this would be a better climb if a bolt was added. I am just a visitor to the area, so my opinion shouldn't count for much, but thanks, Ken, for all the hard work. My 11 year old came off this climb grinning from ear to ear. Oct 27, 2015
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.11a
With the above comment and after talking to people, we elected to add three bolts at the bottom of the route making it a sport lead.

In the several times I've been on this, I have only found one old bolt hole. That one is half way between F&W and West of Eden two feet from the top, maybe a directional for TRing from the East of Eden anchors. Not sure this was ever bolted in the past. May 13, 2016
Owen Murphy
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Owen Murphy   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
This is a total Poudre gem. I would agree that it definitely made sense to go ahead and have the whole thing bolted. Don't yard on the scary, hollow sounding block before the anchors though. Otherwise, this is a MUST for anyone stopping by to climb in the Eden area. Sep 18, 2016
Nik Shah  
 
Really fun climb, thanks for bolting it, Ken! Jun 19, 2017
David Heath
College Station, TX
 
David Heath   College Station, TX
 
Fun climb! The bolts are very spacious after about the 5th clip, separated however by easy climbing. The crux just after the second bolt is certainly a stopper move. I must have had the beta wrong, because for about two moves it was easily hard 11 climbing, no question. Jun 3, 2018
I put up Fish and Whistle in 1985 with Tony Grinko. It's named for a John Prine song. We first climbed East of Eden then a thin line about 25 feet left of Fish and Whistle, which is an amazingly good route, 5.9. It takes lots of small gear. We didn't name it assuming it was a trade route.

The next morning I on sighted Fish and Whistle, placing a few dubious pieces before finally being able to place a bolt about halfway up just before the crux. We rated it 10c R. Some years later I TR ed it, and someone had chopped the bolt. I hope that they chopped it on lead. I would re-rate it at as 11b X. Nov 7, 2018
This an addendum on Fish and Whistle. If I actually did the FA on it, I grant permission to put some good bolts on it. I also give Eric or anyone else permission to lead it without using the bolts, if they prefer. All praise anarchy. Nov 7, 2018